Category: Serengetti safari and Zanzibar

Stories from Tanzania

  • Discovering mystical Zanzibar: Paradise Awaits

    Discovering mystical Zanzibar: Paradise Awaits

    One of the main attractions of Tanzania was the opportunity to go to Zanzibar. Just the name conjures up images of pirates, Arabian nights, mystical African history, slave trading, Indiana Jones and deserted islands with white sand beaches. So we booked it for our last few days.

    We flew from Kilimanjaro and even the arrival was quite exciting. It was just after midnight on the day the government decided to impose a tourist tax of about £25 to cover “health care”. Needless to say it was chaos, the airline didn’t mention it, nobody on the flight knew about it, the online payments didn’t work, nobody had cash, and we were all knackered at 1am.

    As we learned, the country and inhabitants are poor and if this helps then great, but as we always have to remember, this is Africa, so it will be slow and disorganised, and so it was.

    A great view to wake up to from our hotel room, in every sense it felt like a tropical paradise, including cocktail bar

    My online transaction failed, but when i checked the Revolut card it had actually gone through, so with that evidence we were let in and the cab was waiting.

    We then discovered the main road on the island was being dug up, so had a ride through the back streets of Stone Town that doubled the journey time and at times was a bit alarming as it appeared slave trading might still be in fashion based on the neighbourhoods, but finally we made it to the hotel.

    Before we arrived, I tried to work out the best location to stay, and to be honest it seemed to depend on what you wanted from the hotel because everywhere looked stunning.

    Perfect resort

    We stayed at the Tui Zanzibar Bay resort on the east of the island. In my experience hotels very rarely live up to the hype, but this one did and it was exceptional value as well, we might have just got lucky booking it late but it did feel like we were on a tropical island.

    View from our beach and the jetty with the bar on it.  Note how far out the time is, so half the day we didn't really have sea, but it was good for walk along the beach

    Beautiful pools, beachside location and a pier to watch the sunset the sunset and drink cocktails. The beaches 10 miles up the coast were better but most people seemed to stay on the resort anyway.

    When you get past the initial romance of Zanzibar and start investigating what to do, then you quickly discover there isn’t much apart from sitting by the pool, enjoying the ambiance and have a holiday.

    View from the TUI hotel with the tide in and a traditional dow

    Wooksie (my long suffering wife) was very pleased with this lack of options, particularly after being bounced around in a safari vehicle and climbing the foothills of Kilimanjaro, so sat back to read her book in the shade.

    After one day of paradise my ADHT kicked in and I started to investigate the options, I decided it was the right time in my life for scuba diving lessons and maybe even some deep sea fishing.

    The only other options were a rather hot and sweaty trip to see the slave trading history of Stone Town or take a coach to other beaches that seemed sounded wonderful but similar to the one we were on.

    Zanzibar eroded rock formation

    I offered the options to Wooksie, who declined, pointing out she didn’t like being in the sea, asked if I’d noticed she was a red head and would get sunburned on an exposed beach and didn’t want to get hot and sweaty, and picked up her book again.

    So I took to walking along the beach and looking at the strange stone formations and wondering how long the walls would last as the sea was busily eroding away the foundations.

    Dive boats off Zansibar

    It is worth noting that outside of these resorts there is nothing to do. A community had grown up around the hotel but apart from that it was empty.

    A friend of mine (The Chemist in The Crew) had his honeymoon on the island, they rented bikes and rode around the villages and were stoned by a bunch of lads playing football. Initially I thought he meant they had taken drugs but nope, they actually had rocks thrown at them. Personally, I’ve thrown rocks at him in the past as well so I’m not passing judgement, but this does suggest travellers might need to wary of the locals.

    Dive boats off Zansibar

    Scuba diving

    So to keep me occupied, I did two days diving which included lessons, it involved a coach trip up the coast and spending most of the day living the island paradise dream, out on a small dive boat, with fun people and exploring the undersea paradise.

    Dive boats off Zansibar

    It’s fair to say we weren’t alone out on the ocean. The diving happened around a coral reef about a mile out to sea. The diving company were very safety conscious, other than the danger of being run over by another boat.

    The trip was only for experienced divers, to be honest I was a little bit obscure about my diving experience, I mentioned diving on the Great Barrier Reef (didn’t mention it was half a day lesson) so they gave me a refresher course as it was 30 years ago and I quickly picked up the basics. After years of surfing, being under water isn’t much of threat and that seems to be the main obstacle to learning.

    A little bit of tropical heaven on this island near the reef.

    The diving instructors were really good, he was looking after 2 of us, and over the 2 days we did 4 long dives and he took us down to a depth of 18m so technically we had achieved the requirements for the PADI certificate. Unfortunately I hadn’t registered for it so will do it on a future holiday.

    Unfortunately I didn’t have the Go Pro with me on the holiday but underwater pictures don’t tend to be great anyway, needless to say we say lots of fish and I came a little too close to a Moray Eel, even though it was small it was an evil looking son of a bitch and I never want to see one again.

    Sunset from our Zanzibar  jetty
  • Serengetti Safari – the incredible Ngorongoro Crater

    Serengetti Safari – the incredible Ngorongoro Crater

    Day 3 started, not surprisingly at the crack of dawn. The Masai guide collected us from our bungalow in the dark, armed only with a stick and torch, which was a bit scary bearing in mind the guide the day before was armed.

    Grazing flamingos

    Giraffe attack

    The first bit of excitement happened before we reached the breakfast hut, there was a rustle in the trees above, which was unnerving enough as it might have been the missing leopard. The we realised that what we thought were poles were actually legs, it was a bloody great giraffe having breakfast. Startled, it clopped away across the path 20m ahead of us into another clump of trees.

    Grazing giraffe

    Mr Masai told us not to panic, so we walked along quietly with the torch on. Suddenly, all hell broke loose in the clump of bushes housing the giraffe, Mr Masai put his body around Wooksie to protect her as the giraffe burst out of the trees and missed them by less than 5m. It appeared that the torch light frightened the beast and it bolted straight towards us, so an interesting start to the day and you don’t really appreciate how big a giraffe is until it tries to run into you.

    Wooksie wasn’t impressed generally, so We clambered into the truck and set off to tour Ngorongoro Crater reflecting on the fact we were lucky to be alive.

    What is unique about Ngorongoro Crater? Other than being the biggest intact (unbroken) volcanic caldera on Earth, the Ngorongoro Crater is also a natural sanctuary for some of the densest populations of large mammals in Africa. Due to its enclosed nature, the Ngorongoro Crater has effectively formed its own ecosystem, a bit like a land locked Noahs Ark for animals.

    As in the song Hotel California, the animals can check out but they can never leave as they are faced with very steep mountain slopes that surround the crater. The only big animal missing is giraffes, this is because their rather clumsy geometry means they cannot get into the crater, after our pre breakfast experience we weren’t too disappointed.

    Amazing lions

    Without doubt, this was the best day of the safari, the animals were everywhere, especially the lions. These lions seemed to be a bit more motivated than those on the Serengeti hence the great videos and these two beautiful young males displaying their arrogance.

    The big objective for the day was to see a rhino. Spoiler alert, we might as well get this out of the way now, we didn’t see one. Apparently they are very rare, well they might have been extinct for the amount we saw.

    Grazing zebras

    The crater is in effective like a Shangri La for animals, it is a perfect environment. Obviously some of them get eaten by higher mammals in the food chain, mainly the lions, but other than that they all seem to live happily together.

    Zebras and wilder beast everywhere

    We saw huge herds of wilder beast munching away with huge herds of zebras mixed in with them, it was an incredibly tranquil sight. the lions seemed to agree and sat around licking their lips enjoying the view as well.

    Wilder beast at graze

    The wilder beast migration was limited to a little trot from one side of the crater to another, and maybe a jog back. In the crater there is no need to migrate as there is plenty of food and water for everyone, it really was animal heaven. Even the vultures seemed happy.

    Nesting vultures

    The high point of the trip was a close encounter with this bad boy. He truly was the king of the jungle. He stopped all the trucks and blocked the road while he waited for his girls, once they had crossed the road he went for a stroll through the trucks and I could honestly have stroked his head, I was so sorely tempted by decided my arm was quite useful and didn’t need to be risked.

    This close encounter could have been a lot closer, because only about half a mile up the road we had a pee stop, which seemed to have been bought on by the consumption of Tanzanian fanta.

    It was interesting, in a mixed sex vehicle, watching how the two sexes dealt with their desperate need. The boys ran off to the nearest rock, which freaked out our guide Rashid as he couldn’t see us (there is danger everywhere).

    The ladies however had a committee meeting to discuss their approach, and finally took up a position behind the truck, which was in full view of any vehicles coming up the road, strange but true.

    tooth pick tree

    Tooth pick trees

    It wasn’t just the animals, this is a weird tree that is absolutely covered in tooth picks. Nature has designed a defence mechanism that means none of the animals can eat it – what a wonderful world.

    lunch with the safari team

    And finally, lunch on the way home after an exhausting 3 days seeing wonderful things.

  • Serengetti safari –  more safari accommodation shocks

    Serengetti safari – more safari accommodation shocks

    After a long day in the truck chasing animals the sun started to go down so it was time to camp. This time we dropped the young people off at their campsite with their tents.

    What we didn’t expect, was another hours drive into the middle of the Serengeti is search of our accommodation, but that is what happened and 12 hours in that truck is enough for anyone’s rear end.

    Initially the camp didn’t look overly impressive, and Wooksie quickly observed that the accommodation bore a striking resemblance to a tent. I pointed out that it was a very large Bedouin type structure, but there was no escaping that it was made from canvas.

    After the first night of surreal comfort in the middle of nowhere, the reality of sleeping on the Serengeti became real. Once checked in we had to be escorted by the porters, who were armed with paraphernalia to discourage wild animals.

    We had some interesting neighbours, notably water buffalos and wart hogs, and we didn’t want to be bumping into any of them in the dark or in fact the daylight.

    Wounded hyena

    Each room was equipped with walky talky radios so we could call for help in the night should there be any problems as they didn’t want people wandering around in the dark.

    I had a wonderful nights kip but not so good for Wooksie. Apparently a water buffalo had taken a shine to our tent and had been rubbing itself on the veranda all night, the hyena had been howling away, the giraffe had been munching in the trees and the little wart hogs had been snorting away.

    grazing giraffe

    These things are sent to try us I explained to a bleary eyed Wooksie who was lacking her usual sense of humour.

    When we met up with the young people, they had even more issues in the night with elephants wandering around the camp site, its a dangerous place !

  • Serengetti Safari – amazing creatures close up

    Serengetti Safari – amazing creatures close up

    Day 1 was all about the lions, we came to see their awesome power as the kings of the jungle, but actually saw huge cats that seemed to behave like our moggy at home, and slept all day. Time to consider the other creatures that grabbed our attention, particularly on the second day.

    Stunning cheetah

    The star of the show was undoubtedly this beautiful cheetah. Rashid spotted the tail far off in the distance and after a scramble across rutted paths he positioned us at a point where she appeared. Initially she just sat on a bank and waited for us to turn up. She really was beautiful and elegant, she sat and watched the truck before laying down in front of us, just like any other happy cat. She finished her show with a stroll in front of the truck.

    There were antelopes everywhere, they looked so fragile in the barren environment but I guess being that small means they don’t need to each much. Their nimbleness is their main protection and at the first sign of trouble the fly off running in 5 directions at the same time !

    Stunning Thompson cazelle

    As soon as you see a vulture you think of the Jungle Book scene with Mowgli. They are intimidating creatures that live in the very few trees that exist on the plain. They nest at the top where they the can spot ailing creatures in the distance and prepare dinner for the kids. There is just something very unpleasant about them !

    Nesting vultures

    One of the big surprises were these giant turkeys. I thought they lived on farms for most of the year whilst preparing themselves for Christmas. So to see one of these giants wandering around the savanna looking like a nice meal for one of the other creatures was a bit of a surprise.

    Close up vulture

    Another creature that amazed me was the Ostrich. I guess we have all seen them at just about any self respecting kids farm or zoo, consequently it had never occurred to me what their natural habitat would be.

    These giant birds are perfectly equipped to live on the savanna, they are tall and they stand like statues scanning the horizon for danger and presumably food. In addition they have huge legs and feet and can run like the wind when they are in danger and all their body weight is in the middle to give them good balance.

    There are however some design flaws from nature, firstly they have wings but can’t fly so their obvious escape route isn’t available to them. They also seem to be incredibly dumb, as you will see from this video, this idiot bird just walked out in front the truck !

    The little wart hogs were everywhere, such funny little animals. They always seemed to be busy munching grass and not doing anything particularly exciting, but their strange appearance always provided a welcome distraction.

    close up of wart hogs

    Lonely bull elephant

    This elephant was the saddest sight of the trip. It is an old bull elephant that had been kicked out of it’s herd by some young upstart and was left to wander the plains on it’s own. We saw some small groups of 2 or 3 old bulls keeping each other company – nature is horribly cruel as the same happens to the mature male lions.

    Lonely elephant

    in happier times, seeing this family of elephants wandering around the water holes with their babies was a wonderful sight. Nothing rushes an elephant as it regally makes it’s way to wherever it has decided to go

    Big 5 – the Hippos

    Our sighting of another of the Big 5, the hippos. The first sighting of one was very exciting as it popped it’s nostril above the water. Within 10 minutes of driving we found a water hole with dozens of these giant beasts.

    In this photo you will note that they are huddled together, this is to protect the baby hippos from the predatory crocodiles hidden on the banks and the shallows. The looked like giant stepping stones across the pool, but nobody volunteered to give it a go, apparently more humans are killed by hippos in Africa than any other species.

    Pond full of hippos

    Finally the water buffaloes, the things that kept Wooksie awake all night in our compound. There were hundreds in the herd that we came across. They looked like they would make a tasty meal for the lions but their menacing horns and tendency to live in herds made them a challenging prey.

    herd of water buffalo

    So we left the Serengeti without spotted a leopard, but on a 3 day safari we were doing pretty well, time to head to the Ngorongoro Crater

  • Serengetti safari – our first lion encounters

    Serengetti safari – our first lion encounters

    Rashid picked us up from our hotel promptly at a civilised time of 8am, we collected the others from their campsite and headed towards the Serengetti.

    As with all things on a safari, we spent a lot of time on the road and it was a relief to finally get to the main gate, the downside was that it was the end of the tarmac roads and it was rough and dusty from here on out.

    Ngorogoru park entrance

    Ngorongoro Crater park

    Once inside the park there is a long climb up narrow roads to reach the rim of the unpronounceable Ngorongoro Crater. The crater is an extinct volcano and the floor is alive with wildlife, but more about that later as we are off to the Serengeti today.

    Ngorogoru view of the crater

    After what seemed like a lifetime in the truck we finally made it to the second gate in the Serengetti, where we were confronted by a quite amazing site – a giant lorry full of Germans. It looked like it was designed to carry chickens but it transpired it was an amazing converted vehicle that was travelling from North to South in Africa, and it also acted as their accommodation.

    We noticed that Noa and Clara (our German pals) didn’t go out of their way to make friends with them, possibly because there was only one shower between 30 of them.

    Crazy german converted lorry camper van

    Along the highway we stopped to examine the museum dedicated to the discovery of the oldest known human remains ever found in Tanzania, and among the oldest globally, are fossils discovered in Olduval Gorge, which has been called “The Cradle of Humankind”. These remains provide crucial insights into the evolution of humans, particularly the genus Homo although it turned out older remains were found in Morocco and Ethiopia which spoils the story a bit.

    Ngorogoru park dawn of civilisation

    Into the park before the Germans got moving, we didn’t want to be stuck behind that thing, we wouldn’t be able to breath with all the dust.

    Serengetti  entrance

    It wasn’t long before the animals started to appear. In the early stages Rashid gave us a long and detailed explanation of the many different types of antelope which was interesting for a while, but not for too long.

    Thompson gazelle

    Our first lions

    I have to admit that they looked enticing meals for lions. the antelopes (various types) were very fast and nimble, so they looked like quite hard work for the lions and not much of a meal in the smaller ones.

    First sighting of Serengetti lions

    Ahead we noticed that the other trucks had stopped, and suddenly there in front of us was our first pride of lions. there was loads of them, initially it was a couple of females on the verge but soon there was a huge pride of at least 20 lions lazing about, in fact they reminded us of our youngest son who also lazes about a lot.

    First sighting of Serengetti lions

    It was afternoon by the time we entered the Serengetti and it is a vast expanse of savanna grasslands that extended for as far as the eye could see, which was a long way as it was mostly flat.

    By this time we had ticked off elephants and lions and the rest of the afternoon was dedicated to finding a leopard. Sadly this pursuit failed, although we spent an hour staring at a large rock (with about 30 other trucks) where, apparently, there was a leopard. I didn’t see it, but with my eyesight I could hardly see the rock it was supposed to be sat on, but apparently it is in this photo.

    There is a leopard in those rocks - somewhere

    During the afternoon we learned that the lions all seem to have one thing in common, they are very lazy and sleepy. It could be that they just like their afternoon nap but in general, they don’t do much other than laze around, in particular the boys, who could do with a can of Red Bull now and again.

    Sleeping lion

    The girl lions aren’t much better, in fact they prefer to lay around in swamps keeping themselves cool in the afternoon sun. To be fair, there isn’t much shade and to get to it requires moving so why not just lay in the mud.

    sleeping female lions

    So that is the lions of the Serengeti covered, they were the highlight of the day but what a lazy bunch !