Tag: Copacabana

  • Best of Rio in a day

    Best of Rio in a day

    Rain and fog but we still saw the best views

    A couple smiling in front of a scenic view of Rio de Janeiro with a cloudy sky and the ocean in the background.
    Day out in Rio

    We had 3 days to explore Rio. There are many options that involve walking, jeeps or a variety of other forms of transport, but we also wanted to enjoy the beach life while we were there.

    We considered the Flavella walking tour, but after some thought it didn’t seem right to be paying to stare at how poor people live, so we settled on a tour that did the major sites in one day.

    We chose a tour with a company called City Rio Turismo via Tripadvisor as it had all the main sites included, but it wasn’t cheap, costing £80 each. It should be noted that the entry fees to Christ the Redeemer, Sugarloaf cable car, and a very large BBQ lunch were included in that price, so it was pretty good value.

    View of Sugarloaf Mountain and the cable car station in Rio de Janeiro, with cloudy skies and a line of people waiting.
    Sugar loaf queue

    One of the benefits of visiting the tourist hotspots in the rain is nobody else is there, so the legendary queues were missing, getting wet has its benefits. It was a long day, leaving at 8am and arriving back late in the afternoon, but we saw a lot of the city, despite the rain and fog, so here are the highlights.

    Sugar Loaf cable car.

    Sugarloaf cable car

    This is a really imaginative attraction and a complex engineering feat. The original cable car went to the first of the outcrops at 220m above the sea, it was built by Swiss climbers back in 1912 as the rock is almost sheer so very difficult to climb. The second cable car extended up to 400m but crosses over the city to give a great view of the harbour and beaches. Obviously, the views from the top are much better so the middle level is now basically a transfer area with a café and a Heineken bar!

    A person standing in front of a green Heineken promotional structure, smiling and wearing a green sports jersey, with arms outstretched in a welcoming pose.
    Argyle fan in Rio

    When you get to the top there are walks around the ridge, but the scale of the concrete structure perched on the pinnacle is really amazing. The view across to Christ the Redeemer would have been spectacular but all we could see was thick cloud.

    View from Sugarloaf on a wet day

    The main benefit of doing the cable car it to get a view of the vast Rio harbour which stretches into the distance inland. In many ways it is similar to Sydney and its spectacular harbour.

    We were being thankful that we could see Copacabana when the rain and thick clouds arrived and we got soaked, so time to head down.

    Thick fog on sugarloaf mountain

    Christ the Redeemer

    Because of the weather, our courier Lauren decided we would have an early lunch to see if it improved, however as we passed through the city suddenly the clouds parted, and we saw the statue for the first time. All the images are of a beautiful statue on a clear blue sky day, but not us, just a distant grey finger poking through grey clouds.

    Rod and Claire at Christ the Redeemer

    A sudden change of plan and we headed up the mountain towards the stature for the break in the weather. The logistics of building it must have been incredible, the minibus took us up the steep winding road to the reception area, where we swapped buses and headed for the summit excited at the prospect of visiting one of the most famous attractions in the world.

    View from Christ the Redeemer on a rainy day

    We climbed the stairs to the statue reception area and walked around it. It was a totally awe inspiring sight, the statue is as big as I expected. The face is amazingly tranquil as it stares north, presumably towards Rome or Europe.

    A tour guide holding an umbrella in the rain while speaking to a group near a van, with wet pavement reflecting the scene.
    Heavy rain at Christ the Redeemer

    It wasn’t long before the rain came back big time and the clouds closed in and visibility disappeared again. However, we did get a glimpse of Ipanema beach through the clouds. The next day when the sun came out, we were able to see the stature from Ipanema beach as well, this was a great moment.

    Christ the Redeemer from Ibabena beach

    One regret from this trip was not riding the train up to the statue. The route looked spectacular through the jungle and with gradients steeper than I have seen anywhere else, so if I come back that will be on my list.

    Maracana stadium

    Maracana Stadium from Christ the Redeemer

    We had a long drive through the traffic to the stadium and a drive around the perimeter. As a football fan I was excited to see this legendary stadium, but it was disappointing. A massive sprawling concrete structure with walkways heading in various direction so there was very little to see. I am sure it is wonderful inside but as a visitor drive past it was a bit of a waste of time, they didn’t even have a stature of Pele!!

    Rod Sowden at Maracana

    Catholic cathedral

    Rio Catholic  Cathedral

    Next stop was the catholic cathedral, which I have to say was a real eyesore. One of the pug ugliest churches I have ever seen, it looked like a concrete wigwam stuck in the middle of the city. To be honest it improved when you stepped inside and the effect of the glass walls took effect but from the outside it was just plain ugly. It wasn’t clear whether it was a design flaw or intended, but it does not have bells or bell tower, maybe the concrete wasn’t strong enough to hold them. So, the ingenious builders built a separate bell tower for one bell, not surprised it hasn’t caught on as a design concept!

    Catholic cathedral bell tower

    Selaron Steps

    Last stop of the day was the famous Selaron Steps. Apparently, some chap decided to collect tiles from around Brazil and decorate the steps with them, which was a nice idea and has built a handy little tourist attraction.

    Selaron Steps

    Where there are tourists there are markets, so you have to battle your way through Brazil football shirts to get to the steps and then you have to take on the Instagramers doing their photo thing and wanting to take over the steps. There are 250 steps, they start steep and get steeper, so we battled our way to the top to get the tick in the box.

    On the way up there are little bars and sound systems to keep you going, there is also a selection of art around the streets that makes for a colourful experience to end the day.

    Capacabana beach bar cocktail

    The trip ended up back at Copacabana Beach, and I headed straight to a bar for a recovery drink. Apart from the specific stop offs, we really got a feel for Rio, with its busy traffic and endless concrete high rise blocks, 17 million people have to live somewhere and get themselves around at the end of the day, but it’s not pretty.

    So, thanks to Lauren for navigating the weather effectively, and at the end of it, I feel like I’ve seen the best of Rio.

  • Rio – first impressions

    Rio – first impressions

    We all have a view of what to expect in Rio, but is it really like that?

    Panoramic view of Copacaban beach looking north

    First stage of our South American adventure is a little stopover in Rio de Janeiro. It is a vast city, so the first challenge is where to stay.

    To be honest that one is easy thanks to Barry Manilow singing about the Copacabana Beach all those years ago, so we headed there, which is the main tourist zone, but also has a big contingent of locals at the weekend enjoying their city.

    A hand holding a bottle of Corona beer in front of a beach scene with sunbathers and a food cart in Rio de Janeiro.

    We did a really good city tour which I will blog separately, these were my first impressions of a city that I had wanted to visit all my life.https://rareadventures.uk/2025/11/04/rio-in-a-day/

    The beaches

    The famous beaches of Copacabana and Ipanema are right next door to each other, are both 4.5km long and only separated by a small headland.  Ipanema is golden sand whilst on Copacabana there is white sugary sand and both make for great walks to enjoy the beach life.

    Ipabema beach looking south

    There is something incredibly exciting about making it to these world famous beaches but in truth, they are similar to any Spanish costa, with high rise apartments on one side, and endless beach side cafes to sit and enjoy a coffee, beer or cocktail. They are famous for the beach football, volleyball and surfing and there is plenty of each, but the surfing is a bit overrated to be honest, I didn’t bother going in it was that average.

    I[pabenema beach looking north

    The city environment

    Rio itself is not a beautiful city. It is set amongst steep, jungle covered mountains which give it a natural green beauty, but the human contribution has turned the valleys and plains into a concrete jungle of old concrete high rise buildings that have had no sympathy for the colonial history and generally overwhelm the older buildings. Probably the highlight of this is the modern Catholic cathedral, it would be hard to find an uglier building.

    Rio Catholic cathedral

    The massive natural harbour is one of the wonders of the world and as you move around the city there are numerous beaches in each of the suburbs. Having done a tour of the city, I can’t think of any reason why anyone would want to stay anywhere other than on one of the famous beaches, or near it if your budget is a bit tight. It is a very busy city, with traffic jams everywhere and I can’t imagine having much fun in the other suburbs.

    The Weather

    A big surprise was the weather, when we were doing our checks, it was consistently sunny and 30c.  Our first day was overcast and turned into heavy rain, thunder and lightning, second day lots more rain and thick fog, third day we had clear blue sky and sunshine, so we have 4 seasons in 3 days, the only thing we didn’t get was snow.  I guess there is a reason why the whole area is jungle, it gets lots of rain!

    Heavy rain in Rio

    Luckily, we scheduled our city tour on the wettest day, but in hindsight this was probably a bit of luck, as we were able to enjoy the beaches when the sun was out.

    Language

    Having spent 2 weeks plugging away with Duolingo to learn some Spanish in preparation for Argentina, it was deeply disappointing to note that the Brazilians didn’t respond to my attempts at being friendly in Spanish. Now I do realise they speak Portuguese, but there are enough similarities to be civil.

    I then realised that most Brazilians don’t speak anything but their own version of Portuguese, no Spanish at all (maybe on principle!), and they don’t speak English either, so the early exchanges in the beach bars and shops of the Copacabana were very hard work, which really surprised me bearing in mind it is such an attraction for visitors.

    Global Cities

    If I had to compare Rio with one city it would be Sydney, with the beautify harbour and beaches and a population that loves the outdoor life.

    Sunday morning on Ipabena beach

    A few years ago, I concluded that there are some cities in the world that are very different to the rest of that country. 

    The first time I noticed it was on the US, where New York stands apart, Los Angeles was nothing like the rest of the US or New York, similar if you travel to Australia then Sydney is totally different to the rest of the country and London is the same.  

    The difference with London is that it is also the capital city, unlike the others. I put Rio into this category, as a global city, where people flock to experience that individual vibe.

    In all those cities, you can stand and watch herds of people passing by and it is difficult to spot what race that country is. In Rio there is such diversity in the population that you couldn’t say “That is a Brazilian”.

    Ipabena beach on Sunday morning

    The food

    First impressions were pretty good from the beach front bars at Copacabana with lots of fish and steak with unusual sauces and tastes.

    On the city tour we had a Brazilian BBQ which involves eating as much meat as you can. We were lucky enough to stumble out of a rain storm into a restaurant in Ipanema called Bodega Belmonte which was a really authentic dining experience and we had a great afternoon eating and avoiding the rain.

    Botega Belmont

    So, our tour of South America is up and running with a great start in Rio, one of my life ambitions achieved.

    Rod Sowden in Rio