Tag: travel

  • Culture vultures land in Buenos Aries

    Culture vultures land in Buenos Aries

    We landed back in Buenos Aries for our second visit of the South American adventure. The first visit only lasted about 15 hours but we did manage to get in a tour of the main sights before heading to the airport, so we were looking for something different on this visit.

    The trip up from Ushuaia using Flybondi had been surprisingly incident free. After our previous experiences, we were relieved the find the flight on time and we landed in Buenos Aries on schedule, tired but with the evening to look forward to.

    We then encountered the Howard Johnson hotel chain, in particular, their hotel naming convention. Now I get the need for branding and consistency but do the hotels have to have almost the exact same name?

    Howard Johnson Hotels

    So after a long day we got an Uber from the airport to Howard Johnson by Wyndham Buenos Aries, which it turns out is  hidden away in a shopping mall. After walking around in circles trying to find it, we finally found the hidden entrance, waited 10 minutes while a couple of other customers faffed about before it was our turn.

    The receptionist  looked at our reservation and laughed, “You have the wrong hotel”, firstly I didn’t like having to wait anyway, but when he chose to laugh it really did agitate me so I let Wooksie deal with it. It was the first time the pace of our South American adventure started to catch up with us.

    Turned out we were at the Howard Johnson by Wyndham Plaza Buenos Aries Florida, when we should have been at Howard Johnson Plaza by Wyndham Buenos Aries Lima, a mile away, a simple mistake to make I’m sure you will agree, and in fact, a naming convention almost designed to cause trouble for innocent customers.

    So, we called another Uber for 4 persons, and the driver turned up in a VW Up which is hardly a 4 seater. It patently wasn’t big enough to take us and our bags comfortably but I wasn’t giving in that easy, we then had a stand off as he wanted to cancel the trip but after another very dirty look from me we piled into the car with two big bags on our laps, and finally we made it to Howard Johnson Plaza by Wyndham Buenos Aries Lima.  We then discovered that Buenos Aries shuts down on a Sunday night, so there was no big night out for us so a light dinner and a good night’s kip.

    Culture options.

    For this trip to Buenos Aries we wanted something a bit different, we had already done the city tour so wanted to see a different side of the city. Wooksie was adamant that she wanted to experience the traditions of Tango, we had touched on it in Boca, so we decided we would go to a see a Tango show.  We also had time in the day for something else so we decided to do the  tour of the street art in Palermo, and in particular the Soho district.

    In the morning, we went for a stroll in the spring sunshine around the parks and the around Porteno backstreets, was good to feel the sun again after Patagonia and Ushuaia in particular.

    We are not particularly arty, in fact, not arty at all, so the walking tour of the street art was a bit left field for us, but it turned out to be one of the absolute highlights of the trip. We had a really nice, paced walk around the back streets of this famous suburb and you could really feel the buzz, I would imagine nights out in that area would be a lot of fun, there was even an Irish pub.

    Street art in Palermo

    The street art itself was brilliant. If we had wandered around the streets ourselves, we would have missed so much, not just the art but all the history and buildings that make up the area. Bright vibrant colours on all the walls, apparently vandalism is defined as someone who damages someone else’s art.

    Nearly all the walls had artwork on them, from artists all over the world who had come here to leave their mark. I now know the history of graffiti, not to be mistaken for murals of course. It was difficult to really capture all the vibrant colours in the photos as there were so many of them, so I created this video to capture them all.

    The time flew by with a great tour guide and interesting company in the group, but before we knew it, we had to bail out and head back to the hotel for our big night out at the Porteno Tango show a few blocks from our hotel.

    We got ourselves ready in our least scruffy T shirt and jeans for our big night out. Just before we headed for our night out in at the Tango (at 745 pm) I received an email from Antonio Jungle Trekking that said our  accommodation was double booked and offering me their very basic accommodation, no aircon, shared bathroom and a night camping in the jungle – I couldn’t believe what I was reading and it is fair to say it poured cold water on our  evening at the Tango, you can read the full story in our Cautionary Tale blog.

    Wooksie started to come to terms with possible unravelling or Jungle Trek in Manaus and at least started talking to me again in rather clipped phrases, one of the terms she used sounded similar to  anchor.

    A night at the Tango

    Thankfully, our arrival at the Porteno Theatre went without a hitch, the booking was all in place so no problems to navigate, the welcome was warm, and we were directed to our dining table which had a great view of the stage. 

    We then found ourselves in the company of another English couple touring South America in the wake of the BBC Race Round the World, exactly the same as us. So, we had much to talk about, and tales to tell of our adventures and experiences and the pre-show dinner and drinks just flew by.

    A word on the dinner, the food at the theatre was as good as anything we had enjoyed at restaurants and the Merlot was really good quality, it was relatively expensive but was good value for money.

    In the UK we don’t really do show things, it’s not really us but this was a great experience. The whole Tango experience was different to what we expected, the dancing was more akin to what I would have expected in Paris with café culture scenes.  I think we were expecting Flamenco dancing, which we now realise is associated with Brazil 😊.

    Even though the Tango is associated with Argentina, it clearly has its origins in France and Italy with other European influences, a bit like the whole of Argentina really. So, this was the last act in our Argentina adventure as the next day we headed to Brazil to continue our adventure.

    We had a wonderful time in Argentina and I’ve documented the little surprises about the country and what to expect if you decide to come here.

    The pictures tell part of the Tango story, but I put them all together to make a little video of the night, which I hope you will enjoy.

  • Amazon treks –  a cautionary tale.

    Amazon treks –  a cautionary tale.

    Our search for adventure took us into the Amazon jungle. This wasn’t planned at all, but our journey through Patagonia had been quicker than we expected so we had accrued a few days.

    Making last minute decisions is part and parcel of our approach, but the decision to take on the Amazon at short notice did come with risks.

    There were one or two other potential options for the last week, but as I had always wanted to do a jungle trek (and after some negotiation with Wooksie) it was agreed that we would do a jungle trek to use up the spare days, it also had the benefit of saving us coming back on a future trip.

    Reflecting on this story, there is a lesson that if you are going to commit to something as risky as an Amazon trek then you need to do your research properly, rather than doing it on the spur of the moment like we did.

    In addition, we made an assumption that if you offered to pay more, you would get better accommodation, but clearly that was lost in translation.

    The last 2 years we have booked the Inca Trail and a safari in Tanzania without needing a travel agent, so know about the potential pitfalls and the need to take care about the selection process of suppliers.

    We were in Ushuaia when we had the discussion, and I have to admit there were a few logistical challenges, not least that we were on the edge of Antarctica and the treks were mostly from Manaus in Brazil, which is only just south of the equator. We were embarking on a 6000 mile journey as the crow flies, which involved 3 flights and 10 hours on a plane over 3 days to get there.

    Wooksie only agreed to the Amazon trek on condition that the accommodation was good so she could escape some of the heat, many people don’t realise that redheads struggle with body heat regulation, so it was a really important criterion.

    Unlike the Inca Trail and safari, where I did the research months in advance, this time we only had 7 days to get it booked and get to Manaus. Most of the offerings were 2 or 3 nights at a lodge, with a night camping out in the jungle in a hammock, which was an absolute “no no” for Wooksie, and me to be honest.

    So, we set out our defined our requirements, namely, aircon room, private bathroom and no camping in the jungle and sent them off to some of the travel companies in Manaus.

    We tracked down 5 companies that were offering jungle treks and seemed to fit the bill. At such short notice the potential suppliers dropped down to 2, namely:

    In the discussions, I made it very clear that Wooksie needed good accommodation to be able to cope with the heat that we anticipated, at the end of the day, she is a red headed English Rose and has to be handled with care.

    Our safari accommodation had been really outstanding, its cost a lot more but we got what we paid for. It also set an expectation for what we should expect in the Amazon, but of course, this is a different country and different continent,  

    We chose Antonio as he seemed to understand our requirements the best and his English was very good,  so we committed to go with them, on Sunday 15th Nov. for the tour going out on Thursday 20th Nov, after confirming I was a bit surprised they didn’t ask for a deposit, but I booked our flights and we headed to Buenos Aries enroute to Manaus for our trek.

    The problem with rushing through the selection process is that it is difficult to do the quality control and checking, so I was taking their word and depended on them being honest, and unfortunately, we had a nasty surprise coming.

    On the Monday night in Buenos Aries, just before we headed for our night out in at the Tango at 745 pm I received an email from Antonio Trekking that said the accommodation was double booked and offering me their very basic accommodation, no aircon, shared bathroom and a night camping in the jungle – I couldn’t believe what I was reading and it is fair to say it ruined our evening at the Tango.

    I have no doubt that this was a callous attempt to get our booking and that they were never intending to meet our requirements. They hoped that we had no other options so were up shit creek without a paddle and would take their package in desperation.

    I’ve always been careful not to burn bridges unless I have to, fortunately, I hadn’t told Leonardo  we hadn’t chosen them at this point, so a quick check with them confirmed they still had availability and by 1am we had switched the booking to Leonardo Trekking them and all seemed well.

    We have covered the adventures in our other blogs, one to cover the journey to the lodge, the fishing expedition and the jungle treks. So, I am just focusing on the sharing our experiences with the lodge.

    We arrived at the Ipanema  Lodge midafternoon after and an entertaining journey and it was a really nice set up.  We found a lounge and a communal dining area overlooking the river, was a very positive start, so we then headed to our room to settle in.

    Things took a turn for the worst at this point, there were lots of rooms in amongst the trees but we followed a walkway to our room, the walkway was clearly not finished as it didn’t have a roof or any rails to stop us falling over the edge. This was OK in the daylight but when faced with a monsoon in the dark later it became a lot more challenging with a 2m drop each side.

    This brings us to the room. The bizarre thing is that the room technically met our specification because it did have a private bathroom and an aircon unit as we requested. The room was actually a large wooden shed with gaps in the walls and the aircon was totally useless, it was a pathetically small unit in a wooden shed with gaps between the wood, so it had absolutely no impact. 

    We had, unfortunately, been allocated a room that was not in the shade, it was in direct sunlight so the temperatures in the room soared during the day (well over 40C), so the heat was stifling in the room. The balcony had not been built, so the door to the balcony led to a 5m drop into the jungle so had to be kept close.

    It had a private bathroom, which was an anteroom off the shed with a pipe that fed cold water to a shower, which was quite pleasant in truth, and the water ran out through a hole in the floor. Basically, from Wooksies perspective, this was a total disaster but despite everything, she almost kept her sense of humour.

    The accommodation was fine for young backpackers, which is largely what our travelling companions were. In hindsight, it was always going to be wooden accommodation, so temperature regulation was always going to be a problem, but the big lesson not having any images.

    There are about 5 of these lodges in the Amazon Rainforest 4 or 5 hours from Manaus and my conclusion is that all of the lodges are like this, and that accommodation is very basic. Having rechecked the websites, it is very difficult to find any images of the accommodation and if we had had more time I would have asked for images which would have solved the problem and set our expectations.

    As you will read in the other reports, we had lots of fun, the food was very good, with wonderful helpful staff, but the reality is that this is a hot endurance experience. We elected to head back civilisation after 2 nights rather than 3 to save Wooksie any further suffering, we had also done the main jungle experiences, we didn’t need the 3rd night as jungle doesn’t change much whichever direction you walk!

    The reality of a jungle trek is a very basic experience; these lodges are out in the wilderness with no creature comforts. We thought that if we paid extra, we could get a higher level of accommodation, but I am not sure it exists.

    Unlike a safari, where there is a wealthier clientele who will pay extra, I am not sure that market exists in the jungle trek sector, it is hot, steamy and basic.

    A tour of our room at Ipanema Lodge

  • El Chalten – the hard way

    El Chalten – the hard way

    Trekking capital of Argentina, but where do we start?

    This was a difficult trip to work out. El Chalten is known as the trekking capital of Patagonia, but I found it difficult to find an organised trip that went somewhere. The answer I had been seeking became quite straight forward when I arrived as there are no organised treks. The very helpful receptionist, Mattheus in our hotel explained that all the treks are well marked out so there is no need for a guide.

    Being in a foreign land, we didn’t really fancy wandering off into the Patagonian mountains in search of a good time on our own, but in truth, it was that simple. All the treks leave from the same car park, and you can choose the route you to take, ranging from an 8km return to a look out over Mt Fitzroy or much longer treks to the various refuges on the mountain where you can restock on provisions and spend the night.

    Knowing what I know now, I would not have done it the way we did I would have taken the bus, stayed overnight, and given myself 8 hours to enjoy the trek and the mountains. This is what a lot of the guidance says, and it was our plan, but the guidance also glorifies El Chalten, which to be honest is a bit of a one horse town and there is no reason to be there other than a hike or trek.

    We are also out of season, so I suspect in the high season there will be more group treks available to see the main sights and lakes up in the region. We were dithering over what to do when I spotted a one day excursion from El Calafate which included a couple of guided treks with a company called South Road, which seemed to solve the problem. It involved a transfer up to El Chalten, a picnic pack, and 4 hours free time to do a hike.

     At this point, their organiser called Liam intervened. The evening before he sent us joining instructions that involved a 630am start rather than an 8am as we had expected, plus links to organise a visitor’s visas to Chile and a ticket for the national park. This was an exciting development as we hadn’t realised we were going to Chile. After 2 hours of pain on websites with no English translations, plus battles with our credit cards who were reluctant to fund the trip, we finally had the necessary documentation ready to go. As the clock hit midnight, we hit the pillow looking forward what was now only 5 hours kip.

    Next morning we were up and ready for the tour, and in reception for 6.15 am and annoyed the breakfast lady by making a dawn raid on her croissants and coffee. She actually chased me out of the dining room at one point. At 630am we were ready to go, time ticked on, 645, 700, 715 still no bus. I contacted the tour company and discovered a moron named Liam had sent us the wrong details and the bus would be with us at 745 for an 8am departure – FFS. Thanks Liam, that was 3.5 hours of my life, or in fact sleep that day, that I will never get back.

    They even failed that target time, and the bus turned up sometime after 8am, I didn’t really notice as I’d lost consciousness with frustration. Eventually we got on a magnificent looking off road bus and had a bouncy 3 hours’ drive up the famous M40, which is part of the Panamerican highway and runs along the Patagonian range and into Bolivia.

    We arrived in El Chalten about midday, and if ever there was a one horse town this is it. You arrive out of the desert and joined the main street which ends at the car park where the trails start, along the road there is procession of single story coffee shops and gift shops that don’t really grab your attention.

    At the end of the street is a canyon with a milky glacial river, and through that canyon blew freezing cold winds and there was even a flurry of sleet to greet us, it was bitter.

    So, we piled on the trekking gear, and within 20 minutes we were stripped down to our t-shirts, that is how quickly the temperature was changing.

    With 4 hours to play with, our hike options were limited so we headed for Cerro Torre in the hope of seeing Mt Fitzroy and the massive glacier. We also hoped to get to Largo Capri, but the hiking was pretty tough with lots of ups and downs, so we settled for the lookout.

    The weather and visibility were changing all the time and occasionally supported by icy rain when closer to El Chalten and that valley. Whilst we sat eating our picnic overlooking the valley, we were lucky enough to get a break in the mist and clouds and caught a glimpse of the two most spectacular views.

    Mt Fitzroy suddenly appeared to our right, with a brief view straight to the peak, and then a break in the clouds along the valley exposed another massive glacier 10km in the distance.

    It was then back to meet the coach. The courier, Sandra, had warned everyone that the coach would leave at 1530 on the dot, and definitely no later than 1545 (already a compromise). Not surprisingly the coach didn’t leave at any of these times, in fact, we were stood by the coach in the freezing rain until gone 1600, at which point Sandra and the lunch brigade appeared from the restaurant, and after the various pickupss, we were well on our way 1 hour late.

    We got back to El Calafette at 7pm, roughly 13 hours after our journey started and we had a 4 hour hike, so you can see why there are probably better options.

    So, there we have it, we have done the trekking capital of Patagonia and did a hike to prove our credentials, now it is time to head south and the freezing seas of Antarctica and give some appropriate feedback to South Road.

  • The awesome Perito Moreno Glacier

    The awesome Perito Moreno Glacier

    In awe of the power of nature and the size of the glacier

    Having settled into La Calafate and enjoyed the local culture the day before, it was time to set off on the must do adventures, according to the tour guides. There is something particularly beautiful about glaciers, so we put that at the top of our list.

    A panoramic view of a glacier seen from a distance, with icy blue fragments floating in a grey lake, surrounded by mountains and vegetation on the shore.

    We decided to go with Patagonian Dreams as the operator, via TripAdvisor. In all aspects it was a good trip, picked up on time, comfortable coach and friendly, cheerful guide.

    Information sign for Perito Moreno Glacier, displaying height and water drainage details, alongside a map of walking paths and safety instructions.

    La Calafate is the main town in Southern Patagonia, with hordes of summer visitors coming for the trekking and the sightseeing. It is positioned on the edge of the National Glacier park and alongside a massive lake called Lake Argentina, which is the biggest in South America and is absolutely vast. It covers the same square kilometres as Buenos Aries and is an amazing turquoise colour.

    A scenic view of Lake Argentina with a barren landscape in the foreground and low mountains in the background under a partly cloudy sky.

    The source of the water for the lake are the massive glaciers in this region, so our first trip was to see one these magnificent natural wonders. The main glacier in the national park is Perito Moreno, the journey to get there was across a barren desertscape, vast flat valleys that have been created by glaciers way back in time.

    As with all things in Argentina, there is the unexpected park entrance fee that relieved us of £20 each and we headed into the park. The first glimpse of the glacier was a distant white wall in amongst barren hillsides.

    A panoramic view of the Perito Moreno Glacier, showcasing its massive ice front emerging from a turquoise lake, surrounded by lush greenery and snow-capped mountains under a clear blue sky.

    The first view of the glacier was from sea level, or lake level. We travelled out in a specially designed boat that more like a mobile viewing platform. The water temperature was 2c, but we still had the safety briefing that told us where the life jackets were stored.

    Two boats docked at a pier on a glacial lake in Patagonia, with mountainous terrain and a blue sky in the background.

    It seemed a bit academic as we would be dead within 90 seconds in that water temperature, but we all seemed happy with the suggestion we would survive a sinking under the glacier and after the briefing we all rushed outside to find a place on the rails.

    Interior of a boat with a person at the helm, navigating towards a glacier in the distance. Passengers are visible, including a woman wearing a cap, seated in the cabin.

    Even though the glacier was obviously huge, it was difficult to get the scale of the thing as we headed out in the boat, as we got close the full magnitude of this 70m wall of ice became obvious.

    A view of a massive glacier with bright blue ice formations against a cloudy sky, reflecting in calm water.

    All anyone wants on a trip like this is the National Geographic shot of the ice wall breaking, and I’m sure some people did get it because there were regular booms and ice falls into the sea. Unfortunately, I always seemed to be looking the wrong way, or the camera was in my pocket when it happened.

    A smiling woman in sunglasses stands in front of a large glacier, with other tourists visible behind her, showcasing the stunning natural scenery of the glacier and snow-capped mountains.

    I stood at the front of the boat feeling very safe as we pottered our way through the ice, when for some reason, a huge cloud of icy spray came up over the bow. It wasn’t anyway clear why this had happened, maybe we had some ice under the bow.

    A group of people on a boat admiring a massive glacier with vibrant blue ice formations and mountains in the background.

    However the consequences for me were dire, everyone else seemed to see it coming and jumped back, leaving me to take the full force of this icy spray, even worse, as everyone else backed off they created a wall of bodies and there was no retreat for me. I was absolutely soaked; I had a momentary sense of humour favour it is fair to say.

    Two travelers smiling together on a boat in front of a glacier, with an Argentine flag visible and snow-capped mountains in the background.

    We spent an hour under the glacier which was a truly awesome (much overused word but not in this case) experience, but you can have too much of a good thing, especially when you are soaked in icy water so we headed back to the dock and off to the walkways around the headland.

    A group of four people standing on a viewing platform with a glacier and mountains in the background.

    By this time, we had become friendly with a couple of fellow travellers from Scotland, Shane and June, who bought a whole new level of humour to the proceedings as we got to know each other’s lives, which had alarming similarities.

    In the afternoon we spent another two hours on the walkways looking at the glacier from different angles. If the glacier was awesome from below, it was equally awesome from above, because we could see the full length of the glacier stretching back 19 miles into the distance giving us the 3D perspective that you don’t get from the water.

    A panoramic view of the Perito Moreno Glacier with turquoise water in the foreground and scattered icebergs, framed by green foliage and mountains under a blue sky.

    The Glacier has two faces and feeds two different channels. The left hand face feeds a channel that is more of a lagoon, whilst the right hand face feeds that channel that runs into Lake Argentina. During winter the lake contracts as it has no water source until the iceberg melts in the spring and water level in the lake rises again.

    A stunning view of the Perito Moreno Glacier, showcasing its massive ice wall and surrounding mountains under a partly cloudy sky.

    In the company of our new chums, we had a great afternoon wandering the walkways, listening to the ice break off and sharing “empty nester” stories of past and recent travels and our families. In fact, this might have been the reason why we didn’t see an ice fall as we were too busy yapping and laughing at our similarities.

    Aerial view of a massive glacier extending into a turquoise lake, surrounded by rocky landforms and snow-capped mountains in the background.

    Sadly, all good things come to an end, and we headed back across the desert to El Calafate feeling knackered, but not too knackered to meet up with our new chums, enjoy the great local Patagonian beer and their amazing lamb burgers.

    Exterior view of Patagonia Brewing Co. with wooden facade and mountains logo, featuring outside seating.

    Returning to our room ready for sleep, the next adventure to El Chelten manifested itself in an unwanted way, but that is our next story.

    In the meantime, I hope you enjoy the video of our boat cruise and me getting soaked, which I sort of caught on video.

  • Best tours from Bariloche

    Best tours from Bariloche

    After a day in Bariloche it is time to explore

    Following on from my summary of Bariloche, it was quickly time to move on and explore the amazing scenery in the area. After a bit of research we chose 3 tours to cover while we were there.

    We chose to go on the Spanish speaking tours as they were much cheaper, clearly a European surcharge going on. In our experiences the tour is fine without the commentary, it mainly focuses on local species and trees, which I for one, can do with out.

    • Cicruito Chico
    • Tronodor peak and glacier
    • 7 lakes road to San Martens de la Andes

    Here is a quick summary of our experience.

    Circuito Chico

    View from a chairlift ascending through lush greenery and trees in Bariloche, Patagonia.

    Our first tour in Spanish, when we boarded the minibus, I did my Spanish Good Afternoon and stated– Yo no hablo Espanol – we could not speak Spanish.

    It quickly became apparent that we were not the only English speakers on the bus, a few Americans and Europeans. After a few minutes, the tour guide asked if anyone on the bus spoke SPANISH, only 3 people put their hands up. At this point there was lots of laughter and a good, humoured guide explained she only had a few words of English but would do her best, and she did, and we had lots of fun teaching her.

    A man and a woman pose at a viewpoint overlooking a stunning lake surrounded by mountains in Bariloche, Patagonia. The sky is partly cloudy, and lush greenery is visible in the foreground.

    One of the main attractions is a tour of the local lakes. This was only a half day tour but took us to some spectacular locations with stunning views. After visiting Norway earlier this year we had seen some spectacular scenery, but this was probably better.

    Two people posing for a selfie overlooking a scenic lake with mountains in the background and clear blue skies.

    First view involved a chair lift to the top of peak where we could get a full panoramic view of the region, the scenery is awesome speaks for itself in the photos. We ended up on viewing platform that provided for a 360 degree of the Lago Nahuel Huapi national park.

    We then went on a road tour of the shoreline, with numerous little lake side beaches, ferry port and a final look out with a view back along the lake.

    This was a really great tour, it was only 4 hours but we seemed to see so much of the landscape that it is probably all you need to get a feel for the Lago Nahuel Huapi national park.

    Tronodor Glacier

    A breathtaking view of a glacial lake surrounded by rocky mountains and patches of snow, with vibrant turquoise water reflecting the sky.

    The second trip of our visit was to the Tronodor peak in the national park. This is the highest peak in the region and is an extinct volcano. The images are spectacular so we thought we should try it out.

    We booked the Spanish speaking trip again, but things were a bit different this time. All the passengers were Argentinians speaking Spanish, and the guide knew no English whatsoever. Our theory that it wouldn’t matter if we didn’t have a commentary turned out to be solid, my little bit of Spanish helped to understand that the commentary was all about plants and nature so we didn’t miss much as it was just one huge pine forest.

    Panoramic view of a glacial lake surrounded by mountains, with visitors exploring the shoreline and terrain.

    It was an incredibly long day, 10 hours in total on a packed minibus is hard work anyway, but as 90% of it was on rough mountain tracks to get to the waterfall and peaks made it that much harder.

    A smiling couple poses for a selfie in front of a cascading waterfall surrounded by lush green trees.

    The first stop was the beautiful Cascada Los Alerces waterfall. We arrived after a couple of hours bouncing our way along the tracks so the walk to the falls was really welcomed. There was a really cool boardwalk built through the forest that enabled people like us to see the splendour of the beautiful falls.

    We then headed off to the Ventisquero Negro glacier, which hangs off the side of the Tronodor peak. The stop off for lunch was a bit of a disaster as the café didn’t take credit cards, so we sat around dreaming of food and grateful we pocketed a couple of pastries from the breakfast bar.

    Panoramic view of a turquoise lake surrounded by snow-capped mountains and lush greenery in a mountainous region.

    Eventually we arrived at the car park for the glacier and headed off to experience the views. The benefit of being in the mountains during spring is that as the weather warms up the high level snow starts to crack on glaciers, as was the case here.

    On a clear day I am sure that the scenery would have been more spectacular, but on a cloudy day we missed that, and once you have seen one lake you have probably seen them all, so

    While we stood and watched in awe at the size of the mountain and the distant glacier. We heard those telltale booms that tell us that the snow is breaking high up on the mountain and hoping that we would see an avalanche of snow coming off the ridge, luckily on this occasion we saw some snow flurries rolling down the gully.

    Two hikers overlooking a glacier and mountainous landscape, with a group of visitors in the background.

    After an hour spent in this placid location it was time to head back onto the minibus and the 2 hour journey on tracks back to the entrance to the park, and the luxury of tarmacked roads!

    On reflection and bearing in mind that we are heading towards South Patagonia and the Glacier National Park, maybe we didn’t need to go through the trauma of all those hours on the minibus to see the glacier, as there was very little else to see as we travelled through the miles of pine forests. However, the waterfall was fabulous, and we have seen the best of the Bariloche region.

    7 lakes road to St Martens de la Andes

    This was a our last trip so we were getting a bit saddle sore in minibuses by now, so it was nice to have a coach. The journey from Bariloche was interesting and worthwhile.

    This was another Spanish speaking trip but the guide, Stella, was great and worked really hard to explain to us in English what was going on. She had a huge passion for the vegetation and history that fired here enthusiasm.

    As you head out of Bariloche you realise that the scenery is basically scrubland and desert and the road is dead straight, in fact, the Romans would have been very proud of it.

    In a distance of about 10 miles along the lake, the climate changes from huge levels of rainfall with ski slopes into desert scrub and hardly any vegetation, no trees, nothing.

    The early part of the drive around the lake was through the scrubland but as the altitude rose so did the vegetation. As moved through the lakes the dense forest from the Tronodor trip reappeared and made for spectacular scenery, if only the low cloud wasn’t blocking off the peaks.

    After 4 hours of checking out numerous lakes we arrived in St Martens Andes at which point I was hugely relieved that I was only doing a daytrip. It was a rather dull modern lakeside town which nothing of interest to do other than eat lunch and walk back to the bus station. There were no walks or anything, but as luck would have it, the rain poured down so we just had a little wander and got back on the bus.

    I

    Storm over Bariloche

    That is a summary of our trips from Bariloche. As someone who spends a lot of time in the Alps snowboarding and mountain biking, the waow factor of Patagonia wore off pretty quickly and I’m happy to be moving on to El Calafete and the rest of the trip.