Category: Adventures

Stories about travel and adventure

  • Iguazu Falls in a day.

    Iguazu Falls in a day.

    Roaring falls, magnificent views and very wet

    If you are going to come to South America, then the Iguazu Falls will be at the top of your “must do” list.

    We went a long way out of our way get here and it didn’t disappoint.

    There are lots of variations on the way to see the falls. They falls themselves are mainly on the Argentinian side, so you get an up close experience as the boardwalks are built over the actual falls. On the other hand, the view from the Brazilian side is across from the falls, so you get to see the whole panoramic view.

    Iguazu Falls park map

    So having looked at the various options we decided to do a whole day trip on the Argentinian side, so you get up close to the falls. We used Tripadvisor and chose a company called Say Hueque Travel and we had a great guide called Bruno, very friendly,  spoke great English and really helped make it a fabulous day.

    The package we chose covered the three different trails in the Argentinian national park, and the 4×4 truck ride and the power boat ride under the falls themselves. To be honest the 4×4 truck ride wasn’t up to much as it was just a lorry driving through a jungle road btu the rest of it was great.

    Our trip was in November, and it transpired that there had been exceptionally heavy rain along the 1000km Iguazu River, so the river was in very high flood, which made the falls exceptionally spectacular.

    The jungle train to Devils Throat

    Arrival at the park has the normal ceremonies with ticket collection. I hadn’t realised that the park entrance wasn’t included (note for you budget) so had to pay another £20 each to get into the park. This seemed a lot at the time but when you see the infrastructure they have installed it was worth it.

    The day starts with the train ride to the far end of the park, and a place called the Devils Throat station. The train is about 20 minutes and then there is a 2km walk along a walkway out to the edge of the falls, this is slow going if you have a big group of slow coaches ahead of you!

    The bridges stretch right out to the very edge of the most spectacular part of the falls and I couldn’t but marvel at the human ingenuity to get the walkway into such a dangerous place. I found out later that there is a damn that can slow the flow and at different times of the year. That being said, it is still and incredible structure that is built right up to the edge of the cliff.

    It struck me, for some reason, that if you wanted to commit suicide this would be a great place to do it, because there would be absolutely no second chances for a jumper from this boardwalk!

    Words cannot really describe the noise and sensory intensity of this part of the Devils Throat. There are better views from the other lookouts but watching the plumes of water vapour rising in clouds from below was a particularly mystical experience.

    Once we could take no more water, we trekked back along the bridges to hope on the train back to a bit of civilisation and the middle station on the Jungle Railway which drops us at the Upper Trail and the restaurant area.

    Iguazu Falls Upper Trail

    The Upper Trail was empty when we assembled for instructions from Bruno, by the time we set off a huge group of Japanese tourists had clogged up the trail, so we had a very slow walk surrounded by idiots with every type of camera, every type of gismo and a tendency to stand in the way wherever there was a good shot.

    The two best lookout points along the way were Salto Bosseti where there were spectacular views along the top of the falls towards Salto San Martin which is the end of the trail.

    We battled for dominance with the Japanese along the trail, but their numbers were overwhelming and their sense of urgency non-existent, but luckily they are short and I am tall so I was able to get plenty of memories.

    One spectacular view from Salto Bossetti is down into the ravine and the power boats that were coming up the river and driving into the falls themselves, which gave us a pretty good idea of what our boat trip was likely to involve.

    The main wildlife were the racoon type scrounging creatures. I sat down for a breather in the heat and before I knew it there was a racoon thingy climbing onto my ruck sack, it had clearly sniffed out my Double Decker bar, so I gave it short shrift but not enough to make it angry, as they looked particularly nasty.

    Iguazu Falls lower trail.

    It probably took 90 minutes to complete the Upper Trail and then it was time for lunch. I have to admit, the food selection was good, with 3 different cafes offering lots of choice so we went for the buffet.

    After lunch we had the option of sleeping (which the Mexican opted for) or doing the lower trail, which the Brits, Canadians and Americans chose. It was a very different view as we trekked below many of the outflows, so had water cascading all around us but only got drenched once.

    The trail is cut into the hill side and gave a completely different perspective on the various falls and just how tough the terrain is in this region.

    After another 2.5km walk we were back at the food halls and searching for the sleeping Mexicans who were having a lovely siesta under a tree. At the point it was time to join the queue for the jungle expedition and the boat ride.

    Jungle and water adventures.

    Having seen the boats from Salto Bossetti there was no danger we were not going to get wet. Some determined souls found capes and waterproofs, but it did feel like it was going to be a bit futile and so it transpired.

    First though, we had the truck ride through the jungle, and our guide seemed to be some form of jungle high priestess, as she clearly worshipped the vegetation. On a number of occasions, the truck stopped just so that we could listen to the silence in the jungle.

    The jungle itself was a bit light on creatures, but we did see a few toucans and a couple of giant lizards wandering around without a care in the world. The most amazing sight was the butterflies, they were huge and plentiful and lots of different colour, they are almost impossible to photograph unless they land on someone, but I did get a nice video as we boarded the power boat.

    I was first on the boat, grabbed the front seat, got my GoPro ready for the journey and sat back. There isn’t really much to say about the powerboat ride, other than it was very intense, lots of fun and hope you enjoy the videos, they tell the story better than words.

  • Best of Rio in a day

    Best of Rio in a day

    Rain and fog but we still saw the best views

    A couple smiling in front of a scenic view of Rio de Janeiro with a cloudy sky and the ocean in the background.
    Day out in Rio

    We had 3 days to explore Rio. There are many options that involve walking, jeeps or a variety of other forms of transport, but we also wanted to enjoy the beach life while we were there.

    We considered the Flavella walking tour, but after some thought it didn’t seem right to be paying to stare at how poor people live, so we settled on a tour that did the major sites in one day.

    We chose a tour with a company called City Rio Turismo via Tripadvisor as it had all the main sites included, but it wasn’t cheap, costing £80 each. It should be noted that the entry fees to Christ the Redeemer, Sugarloaf cable car, and a very large BBQ lunch were included in that price, so it was pretty good value.

    View of Sugarloaf Mountain and the cable car station in Rio de Janeiro, with cloudy skies and a line of people waiting.
    Sugar loaf queue

    One of the benefits of visiting the tourist hotspots in the rain is nobody else is there, so the legendary queues were missing, getting wet has its benefits. It was a long day, leaving at 8am and arriving back late in the afternoon, but we saw a lot of the city, despite the rain and fog, so here are the highlights.

    Sugar Loaf cable car.

    Sugarloaf cable car

    This is a really imaginative attraction and a complex engineering feat. The original cable car went to the first of the outcrops at 220m above the sea, it was built by Swiss climbers back in 1912 as the rock is almost sheer so very difficult to climb. The second cable car extended up to 400m but crosses over the city to give a great view of the harbour and beaches. Obviously, the views from the top are much better so the middle level is now basically a transfer area with a café and a Heineken bar!

    A person standing in front of a green Heineken promotional structure, smiling and wearing a green sports jersey, with arms outstretched in a welcoming pose.
    Argyle fan in Rio

    When you get to the top there are walks around the ridge, but the scale of the concrete structure perched on the pinnacle is really amazing. The view across to Christ the Redeemer would have been spectacular but all we could see was thick cloud.

    View from Sugarloaf on a wet day

    The main benefit of doing the cable car it to get a view of the vast Rio harbour which stretches into the distance inland. In many ways it is similar to Sydney and its spectacular harbour.

    We were being thankful that we could see Copacabana when the rain and thick clouds arrived and we got soaked, so time to head down.

    Thick fog on sugarloaf mountain

    Christ the Redeemer

    Because of the weather, our courier Lauren decided we would have an early lunch to see if it improved, however as we passed through the city suddenly the clouds parted, and we saw the statue for the first time. All the images are of a beautiful statue on a clear blue sky day, but not us, just a distant grey finger poking through grey clouds.

    Rod and Claire at Christ the Redeemer

    A sudden change of plan and we headed up the mountain towards the stature for the break in the weather. The logistics of building it must have been incredible, the minibus took us up the steep winding road to the reception area, where we swapped buses and headed for the summit excited at the prospect of visiting one of the most famous attractions in the world.

    View from Christ the Redeemer on a rainy day

    We climbed the stairs to the statue reception area and walked around it. It was a totally awe inspiring sight, the statue is as big as I expected. The face is amazingly tranquil as it stares north, presumably towards Rome or Europe.

    A tour guide holding an umbrella in the rain while speaking to a group near a van, with wet pavement reflecting the scene.
    Heavy rain at Christ the Redeemer

    It wasn’t long before the rain came back big time and the clouds closed in and visibility disappeared again. However, we did get a glimpse of Ipanema beach through the clouds. The next day when the sun came out, we were able to see the stature from Ipanema beach as well, this was a great moment.

    Christ the Redeemer from Ibabena beach

    One regret from this trip was not riding the train up to the statue. The route looked spectacular through the jungle and with gradients steeper than I have seen anywhere else, so if I come back that will be on my list.

    Maracana stadium

    Maracana Stadium from Christ the Redeemer

    We had a long drive through the traffic to the stadium and a drive around the perimeter. As a football fan I was excited to see this legendary stadium, but it was disappointing. A massive sprawling concrete structure with walkways heading in various direction so there was very little to see. I am sure it is wonderful inside but as a visitor drive past it was a bit of a waste of time, they didn’t even have a stature of Pele!!

    Rod Sowden at Maracana

    Catholic cathedral

    Rio Catholic  Cathedral

    Next stop was the catholic cathedral, which I have to say was a real eyesore. One of the pug ugliest churches I have ever seen, it looked like a concrete wigwam stuck in the middle of the city. To be honest it improved when you stepped inside and the effect of the glass walls took effect but from the outside it was just plain ugly. It wasn’t clear whether it was a design flaw or intended, but it does not have bells or bell tower, maybe the concrete wasn’t strong enough to hold them. So, the ingenious builders built a separate bell tower for one bell, not surprised it hasn’t caught on as a design concept!

    Catholic cathedral bell tower

    Selaron Steps

    Last stop of the day was the famous Selaron Steps. Apparently, some chap decided to collect tiles from around Brazil and decorate the steps with them, which was a nice idea and has built a handy little tourist attraction.

    Selaron Steps

    Where there are tourists there are markets, so you have to battle your way through Brazil football shirts to get to the steps and then you have to take on the Instagramers doing their photo thing and wanting to take over the steps. There are 250 steps, they start steep and get steeper, so we battled our way to the top to get the tick in the box.

    On the way up there are little bars and sound systems to keep you going, there is also a selection of art around the streets that makes for a colourful experience to end the day.

    Capacabana beach bar cocktail

    The trip ended up back at Copacabana Beach, and I headed straight to a bar for a recovery drink. Apart from the specific stop offs, we really got a feel for Rio, with its busy traffic and endless concrete high rise blocks, 17 million people have to live somewhere and get themselves around at the end of the day, but it’s not pretty.

    So, thanks to Lauren for navigating the weather effectively, and at the end of it, I feel like I’ve seen the best of Rio.

  • Rio – first impressions

    Rio – first impressions

    We all have a view of what to expect in Rio, but is it really like that?

    Panoramic view of Copacaban beach looking north

    First stage of our South American adventure is a little stopover in Rio de Janeiro. It is a vast city, so the first challenge is where to stay.

    To be honest that one is easy thanks to Barry Manilow singing about the Copacabana Beach all those years ago, so we headed there, which is the main tourist zone, but also has a big contingent of locals at the weekend enjoying their city.

    A hand holding a bottle of Corona beer in front of a beach scene with sunbathers and a food cart in Rio de Janeiro.

    We did a really good city tour which I will blog separately, these were my first impressions of a city that I had wanted to visit all my life.https://rareadventures.uk/2025/11/04/rio-in-a-day/

    The beaches

    The famous beaches of Copacabana and Ipanema are right next door to each other, are both 4.5km long and only separated by a small headland.  Ipanema is golden sand whilst on Copacabana there is white sugary sand and both make for great walks to enjoy the beach life.

    Ipabema beach looking south

    There is something incredibly exciting about making it to these world famous beaches but in truth, they are similar to any Spanish costa, with high rise apartments on one side, and endless beach side cafes to sit and enjoy a coffee, beer or cocktail. They are famous for the beach football, volleyball and surfing and there is plenty of each, but the surfing is a bit overrated to be honest, I didn’t bother going in it was that average.

    I[pabenema beach looking north

    The city environment

    Rio itself is not a beautiful city. It is set amongst steep, jungle covered mountains which give it a natural green beauty, but the human contribution has turned the valleys and plains into a concrete jungle of old concrete high rise buildings that have had no sympathy for the colonial history and generally overwhelm the older buildings. Probably the highlight of this is the modern Catholic cathedral, it would be hard to find an uglier building.

    Rio Catholic cathedral

    The massive natural harbour is one of the wonders of the world and as you move around the city there are numerous beaches in each of the suburbs. Having done a tour of the city, I can’t think of any reason why anyone would want to stay anywhere other than on one of the famous beaches, or near it if your budget is a bit tight. It is a very busy city, with traffic jams everywhere and I can’t imagine having much fun in the other suburbs.

    The Weather

    A big surprise was the weather, when we were doing our checks, it was consistently sunny and 30c.  Our first day was overcast and turned into heavy rain, thunder and lightning, second day lots more rain and thick fog, third day we had clear blue sky and sunshine, so we have 4 seasons in 3 days, the only thing we didn’t get was snow.  I guess there is a reason why the whole area is jungle, it gets lots of rain!

    Heavy rain in Rio

    Luckily, we scheduled our city tour on the wettest day, but in hindsight this was probably a bit of luck, as we were able to enjoy the beaches when the sun was out.

    Language

    Having spent 2 weeks plugging away with Duolingo to learn some Spanish in preparation for Argentina, it was deeply disappointing to note that the Brazilians didn’t respond to my attempts at being friendly in Spanish. Now I do realise they speak Portuguese, but there are enough similarities to be civil.

    I then realised that most Brazilians don’t speak anything but their own version of Portuguese, no Spanish at all (maybe on principle!), and they don’t speak English either, so the early exchanges in the beach bars and shops of the Copacabana were very hard work, which really surprised me bearing in mind it is such an attraction for visitors.

    Global Cities

    If I had to compare Rio with one city it would be Sydney, with the beautify harbour and beaches and a population that loves the outdoor life.

    Sunday morning on Ipabena beach

    A few years ago, I concluded that there are some cities in the world that are very different to the rest of that country. 

    The first time I noticed it was on the US, where New York stands apart, Los Angeles was nothing like the rest of the US or New York, similar if you travel to Australia then Sydney is totally different to the rest of the country and London is the same.  

    The difference with London is that it is also the capital city, unlike the others. I put Rio into this category, as a global city, where people flock to experience that individual vibe.

    In all those cities, you can stand and watch herds of people passing by and it is difficult to spot what race that country is. In Rio there is such diversity in the population that you couldn’t say “That is a Brazilian”.

    Ipabena beach on Sunday morning

    The food

    First impressions were pretty good from the beach front bars at Copacabana with lots of fish and steak with unusual sauces and tastes.

    On the city tour we had a Brazilian BBQ which involves eating as much meat as you can. We were lucky enough to stumble out of a rain storm into a restaurant in Ipanema called Bodega Belmonte which was a really authentic dining experience and we had a great afternoon eating and avoiding the rain.

    Botega Belmont

    So, our tour of South America is up and running with a great start in Rio, one of my life ambitions achieved.

    Rod Sowden in Rio
  • Video Highlights of Les Gets Bike Park

    Video Highlights of Les Gets Bike Park

    Having survived the Gremlins and made it to the trails, this blog is the story of the runs I did at the Les Gets bike park, I worked my way around the mountains and recorded the blue runs on a perfect day in August 2025.

    On this trip, Strava was been my only companion and without the normal distractions of my mates, I’ve managed to make into all time top 10 for the old people (over 65) on all the runs and I’ve enjoyed every second of it.

    The first run of the day is the L’Arpette trail, this runs across country and will probably be the first introduction to the steep berms, which are the main characteristic of the blue trails in this part of France. For people coming out from the UK these can be a shock, but also very exciting, because you realise this is going to be the real deal.

    The L’Arpette is mainly exposed so at least you can see where you are going but takes you into the trees on the second section for a taster of what is to come and after bouncing around in the woods it drops you out at the bottom of the Nauchets lift.

    The ride up in the Nauchets lift is spectacular, it starts in a bowl, and you can see how busy this would be in the winter, but on a hot and sunny summer’s day it is difficult to imagine the area being covered in snow.

    The lift takes up and over the runs that await you. It takes you over a labyrinth of trails that run down under the lift and gives you a great view of the challenges that await you when you get to the top. In fact, there are 3 different trails weaving their way down the mountain under the lift, and even more amazingly, they don’t actually cross each other thankfully.

    This video covers the left hand trail at the top section of that runs down under the under the lift. These top trails take a real hammering but when I was there, it was really nice and dry, and they were really solid. The top of the berms were cracking a bit but it really gets you in the mood and you will probably do them a few times.

    The trails under the lift don’t seem to have a name, but there are 2 blues and a black, this is the video that covers the blue trail that runs down the right hand side, Lots of challenges and rollers to keep you focused and at times there seems to be riders coming straight at you until their trail veers away.

    The next challenge is which trail to take back down to the bottom of the lift, there are 2 options and as most people go up and down this area repeatedly you will end up doing both. The first one you will see is called the The Shore and is probably the most popular because of its location.

    Consequently, it takes the biggest hammering from thousands of chunky tyres, but the hard baked berms and run through the trees gives plenty to concentrate on and in the second section drops into more trees before the fast run back to the lift. When you do these trails in the wet, they are much hairier, as the soil is a type of clay and you slide all over the place on the steep berms,

    The alternative is the Triple 8 trail which is by far my favourite, it is on the same fire track as The Shore but involves about 5 minutes of pedalling to get to it. It starts with a drop off the path, so you are flying downhill from the start in and into the first berm.

    This is just a fantastic trail to get your pulse racing; it’s steep winding and really challenges your courage and brakes. It feels like you’re on some sort of Helter Skelter ride as the berms get steeper and tighter and you are holding on.

    On my first visit here my brakes overheated on this run, that added to the excitement and ultimately 3 broken ribs as I didn’t realise that once brake fluid has overheated it loses its effectiveness and I had a horrible crash the next day when they weren’t there when I needed them most !

    Unfortunately, the Go Pro on the front of the handlebars is looking ahead at the berm so isn’t looking down the mountain, consequently it doesn’t really capture how steep it is. Try to imagine it’s vertical and the only thing that’s stopping you going straight down the hill is the berms, if you do the black run, you just go straight down the hill!

    After hammering the runs, it is time to head back. Normally I do the route around the mountain into Morzine for a change as there is a brilliant section at the top but the end is a bit boring down a fire track and the queues out of Morzine can be huge so I skipped it as I had still had La Chatel to look forward to.

    The run back is called Tomahawk. This run starts at the very top of Les Gets at Nauchets lift and runs down to around halfway where it meets up with La Roue Libra. The first section is fast as you come off the fire road and into the trail with through berms and tabletops, my mate The Mechanic ended up in the undergrowth here after misjudging his speed. It then runs under the Chavannes Express lift across open country before diving fast into the trees and a load of tabletops that will have you much higher in the air than you expect before twisting back through the berms.

    As this is the run home, the trail gets busier here so find a free run without being hassled by a Young Turk or finding yourself behind a slow coach isn’t easy. You then join La Roue Libra It follows on from the Tomahawk route in the top section and takes you down through a long winding and very fast set of berms into the jump park near the bottom. It is a really fast ride but due to the wear it is easy to lose the trail in the labyrinth of short cuts that have been worn in over the years. As evidence of how busy it is there are couple of overtaken manoeuvres on the way down.

    Finally, you hit the Jump Park. This is a short run at the bottom of La Roue Libra and you come across it suddenly and can easily get caught up in the congestion of people waiting to go. There are 4 starting routes, which are basically, big ramp jump, small ramp jump, big ramp drop off or small drop off. This gives you the speed and you can impress the guys going over the top in the lifts as you go down, the table tops seem to launch you into the air without any effort and you depart Terra Ferma whether you like it or not, as you see in the video, the runs meet at the bottom which can be a bit dangerous if someone doesn’t give way !

    Normally this section runs you down in the Les Gets giant berms, but as the Downhill World Cup had taken over the resort, we were re-routed away so no video this time.

  • Destination Argentina

    Destination Argentina

    Patagonia and Ushuaia here we come

    Nearly time to pack our rucksacks for the next adventure. This is a big one on our bucket list and has taken a lot of planning over the last few months.

    Anyone in their right minds would be using a travel agent, but that is too easy for us. It would hardly be Rare Adventures if we had someone organising us, just think of the things that could go wrong.

    This idea first came up from the BBC series “Race across the world“, when they travelled the length of South America. The scenery was so remote and beautiful that we decided we had to see Patagonia and the most southerly point at Ushuaia.

    In an ideal world we would like to have been doing more by road to enjoy the scenery, but the distances are so vast we will be using internal flights as our main form of transport. Wooksie has put a 1 month limit on the trip and we had to be home for Christmas, which apparently starts on the 1st December in her world, the schedule was a bit of a challenge,

    It is quite difficult to filter though the information on the internet, there is so much to trawl through and evaluate, but eventually we came up with this route. Driving or train would have been more fun but would have constrained us too much, and by using flights we can spend more time as the destinations.

    Image of the Lonely Planet guide to Argentina

    After all these years, and with all the online information, we still end up buying a copy of the “Lonely Planet” as a simple point of reference.

    Argentinian itinerary

    Here is our plan, or maybe more of a list of things that might happen!

    • 29th October fly from Bristol to Rio– with a change in Amsterdam with KLM, we spend 3 days enjoying the Copacabana and Ipanema beaches, bars and having a look at Christ the Redeemer and Sugarloaf Mountain.
    • 2nd Nov we fly to Iguazu Falls – for trekking, 4×4 offroading and speed boating around the spectacular falls, it’s going to be a spectacular day.
    • 4th Nov we fly to Bariloche via Buenos Aires – this could be a bit tricky as it’s not a through flight but with a bit of luck we will arrive in the northern part of Patagonia and the Argentinian Lake District in the early evening. Trekking and adventures at altitude await us.
    • 9th Nov we fly to Buenos Aires – we then have 3 or 4 days getting to know the place and popping over to Montevideo in Uruguay.
    • 13th Nov we fly to El Calafate to spend 4 days trekking around the glaciers and mountains in the southern part of Patagonia.
    • 16th Nov we fly to Ushuaia to head to the most southerly point in South America and cruise around the Beagle Channel, unfortunately Wooksie didn’t fancy a cruise to Antarctica which is a disappointment.
    • 20th Nov we start our trip home with more stop overs in Buenos Aires and Rio before getting back for the end of November.

    We have lots of adventures and and scenery to explore d and will be posting regular updates on what has happened – onwards and upwards.