Category: Adventures

Stories about travel and adventure

  • Turkey – what you need to know?

    Turkey – what you need to know?

    We had been to Turkey before, but it was over 30 years ago. I still had memories of Europe meets Asia and everything being cheap, the last bastion of cheap holidays on the border of Europe.

    It is still a very special place with a very rich mix of cultures. Listening to people talking, you could hear words that seemed to come from many languages mixed together, and when written down there were even Scandinavian-looking letters within the words and sentences on billboards.

    So here is a quick checklist of what we found.

    Prices and cost of living

    The myth about cheap food was busted as soon as we got on the flight to Istanbul. Onboard trolley grub was twice the cost of EasyJet. Initially, I thought I hadn’t grasped the currency conversion, but after a couple of hours in Istanbul I realised it wasn’t my mistake.

    They used to be self-sufficient in food, but global supply chains have put an end to that caper.

    Istanbul was particularly expensive. Eating out was more expensive than in the UK and on a par with capital cities across Europe. The cost of entry to anything a tourist would want to do was exorbitant, for example, museums.

    It was definitely cheaper in Cappadocia, probably 30–40%, and I guess the further you get from the tourist centres, the cheaper it will get. The good news is they still have high-quality rip-off goods at bargain prices.

    Speaking to locals, the cost of living has increased substantially and they are very vulnerable to exchange-rate fluctuations.

    Food

    I have to say this was a tad disappointing. As a lover of kebabs, I was really looking forward to the food, but it was a disappointment in terms of variety and flavours, which is ironic considering how much spice is on sale in the bazaars.

    The menus have a strong base in general European dishes, especially Italian, with pizza and pasta. I love their own pide, but only saw it a couple of times on the trip. You can’t compare it to somewhere like Greece, where the variety and tastes are good reasons for a holiday.

    People

    Generally, they were great fun to be around, a lively bunch who enjoyed late-night music and tried their best to help wherever they could. They are a lot better at speaking English than I remember, but they weren’t very good at understanding my poor attempts to speak Turkish.

    So generally, their warmth and kindness are good reasons to look forward to a visit.

    The best night of our holiday was spent with our Uber driver and his friends, hanging out at a Latino dance evening. Strange things happen to us.

    Places we went

    We went to three places and each was very different, and not necessarily in line with our expectations.

    Istanbul

    Istanbul was a bit disappointing, probably because I expected to see a mix of East and West. In reality, the city is dominated by stunning mosques and life around the Bosphorus, the strait that separates Europe and Asia.

    The historic defences have been overwhelmed by human habitation. The walls still exist, but they are often masked by developments, so you don’t get a feel for how powerful it was, in my view. I was expecting something akin to Rome, where you can feel the history. That wasn’t the case here.

    We were in Istanbul for four nights and, to be honest, would have done it in three or maybe even two. Once you have toured Sultanahmet, you have seen the main stuff.

    Cappadocia

    Cappadocia is in the middle of nowhere, and the term describes a large and ancient region that the historic Silk Road used to pass through on its way between Europe and Asia.

    So, the area we are really talking about is Göreme, a tourist town around which many of the main attractions radiate. The balloon rides fly over the surrounding area and most of the tours leave from here.

    We stayed just outside at a place called Ortahisar, which was 10 minutes away, because we wanted to stay in a cave hotel. We could have done that in Göreme and had a lot more options in the evening, but, being there for only two nights, it was fine.

    It is a dry, stark landscape, surrounded by strange volcanic structures. It is hot in the summer and cold in the winter, and we enjoyed clear skies, warm days and crisp nights in October. The history is everywhere around you and the main attractions were stunning.

    Antalya

    Antalya was our final destination, a very well-known holiday destination, and probably the only surprise was its size. It is a major city and the traffic certainly feels like it.

    There are three main areas where people stay.

    The Old Town – congested and historic, with Hadrian’s Gate and plenty of Roman structures and walls, the kind of thing I was expecting in Istanbul, I guess. This is a good base and, given the chance, I would have stayed a couple of nights here before heading to the beach.

    Lara Beach – this is the home of all the big all-inclusive hotels, many of which have been built to a theme, like Venice or the rather intimidating Kremlin Palace. This is to the south of the Old Town and is convenient for many of the tours, and there are tourist bazaars everywhere.

    Konyaaltı Beach is to the west of the city centre. It has a long seafront promenade with bars and coffee shops along it. This is where we stayed because we wanted to be on the seafront, and we were very happy with it. There are plenty of other bars back from the beach, so it had everything we needed, but it was quieter than we expected. It felt a lot more residential than touristy, but that might have been the time of year.

    The one downside of Konyaaltı Beach is the tours. You have to add about an hour to each tour compared with being at Lara Beach. As we wanted to do tours, this was a real pain, as you were the first pick-up and final drop-off, but it was worth it when you sat in the beachside bar at the end, listening to chilled Ibiza vibes.

    If you go to Turkey, I am sure you will enjoy it. I hope this information will be helpful.

  • 2 days in Cappadocia – the incredible balloons.

    2 days in Cappadocia – the incredible balloons.

    The big day arrived for our balloon ride. This is what people come to Cappadocia for.

    Anyone who has been up in a balloon will know that the weather is everything. The forecast was good, but a storm was on its way for the week ahead, so it was today or never.

    A 0445 alarm call, so we could have a cup of tea in our cave before being picked up at 0540. We had been concerned about how cold it might be in the desert, so we were wrapped up warm as we headed up to reception.

    0540, no bus, but not to worry, as most things are late in Turkey. I was standing outside reception taking in the morning sunrise. At 0550, I glanced at WhatsApp and found a message saying the driver had been and gone because we weren’t at reception and that he would not come back to get us. They hadn’t even tried to ring before abandoning us.

    Our hotel was in a tight lane, and the lying shit clearly hadn’t bothered to walk up to reception and check. I was apoplectic. We had lost over £400 for the balloon flight thanks to an idle driver from Skyways Travel. The terms of the booking stated that if we weren’t at the pick-up point, we would lose our payment.

    As you can probably imagine, there was a rather frantic exchange of WhatsApp messages and calls, and then a bus turned up out of the blue. It turned out not to be our bus, but a bus picking up two other passengers for the balloon ride from our hotel.

    At this point, we discovered there are dozens of companies launching balloons. A stressful call with our company and this bus driver led to us hopping on the bus and off we went, but not too far, as the bus stopped outside another hotel and told us to get off.

    So we stood there, with no idea what the plan was. I felt like we were in some sort of hostage exchange process in the middle of the desert. Wooksie was starting to lose her patience with everyone and everything.

    Our company didn’t seem to know where the hotel was, so more frantic messages, calls and sending of locations on WhatsApp, and eventually a calm and friendly cab driver turned up, explained what was going on and dropped us at the flight park.

    We were then connected to our original lazy bus driver, who appeared offering us our breakfast box. He got a very dirty look, but I decided giving him a mouthful wouldn’t help.

    He was genuinely an idiot or simply didn’t care. He locked the bus doors, so the people inside staying warm couldn’t get out and those outside freezing couldn’t get in to warm up.

    It was then that we discovered the flights were all delayed because of the weather forecast. On the one hand, if it hadn’t been for this delay, we would have missed the launch, so there was some relief. But now there was anxiety about the possibility that we wouldn’t go at all, and a new wave of frustration and anxiety.

    How much stress can any human take before 7am on a Sunday morning?

    Eventually the “Go” came from the Turkish aviation body. The gas burners were ignited and started to pump heat into the balloon canopies. The conditions were changing and every company wanted to get airborne and get on their way. Refunds for non-flights weren’t their priority.

    The balloons rise out of a big bowl in the valley, and the ridges were covered with spectators watching and filming the extravaganza.

    The balloon baskets were huge; ours took 28 people plus the pilots, and as the balloons rose around us, it was majestic. I’m used to seeing balloons, as Bristol is the balloon capital of the UK, but this was genuinely spectacular.

    As our balloon rose, we climbed above the ridges and were greeted by a view across the valley, with dozens of balloons rising from every nook and cranny around the town of Göreme. In every direction, the sky was filled with colourful balloons, all drifting at different altitudes, above us, beside us and below us, filling the space up to 1,000m altitude.

    The balloons drifted serenely down the valley, over the town of Göreme, with the highlight of the flight being the fairy chimneys in the valley. Surprisingly, they don’t belong to fairies; they are weird toadstool-shaped structures that erosion has created from the volcanic rock in this valley.

    After the trauma caused by the moronic bus driver, it was thankfully a tranquil experience. An hour later, we reached the landing site. The landscape was filled with minibuses and 4x4s towing trailers, tracking their company’s balloon.

    The pilots even managed to land the giant baskets onto their trailers. Not an easy trick to pull off, but one that I suspect they pull off every day. So we were back on the ground and it was only 0930.

    So, after a glass of champagne, presumably to celebrate still being alive and not crashing, we piled back into the bus to head back to bed.

    Once again, it didn’t last long, as we were chucked out in Göreme and directed to another bus to take us to our hotel, which he didn’t. He took us to a completely different hotel about two miles away.

    So, having got the pick-up wrong, Skyways Travel managed to cock up the drop-off as well. It was less stressful this time, but still annoying. Mysteriously, my review isn’t visible on their Tripadvisor page.

    So, that is it. Cappadocia done. We’ve seen the best and don’t really need to see the rest. Time to head to Antalya and hopefully a bit of rest and recuperation.

    Rod and Claire ready to fly at Cappudocia
    Balloons flying over Fairy Towers over Cappudocia
    Balloons take off over Cappudocia
    High altitude via of Balloons over Cappudocia
    Balloons over Cappodocia - view of the fairy towers and caves in the hillsides
  • 2 Days in Cappadocia: The Amazing Underground Cities

    2 Days in Cappadocia: The Amazing Underground Cities

    There are two main reasons for going to Cappadocia. It is the spectacular balloon flight images that attract most people, but my interest in Turkey had been triggered by a documentary on the underground caves that were built by ancient tribes to hide from aggressors, dating back to Romans chasing early Christians and then Genghis Khan chasing them with the marauding Mongols.

    Getting to Cappadocia wasn’t as easy as it seemed. One of the characteristics of air travel in Turkey is that airports seem to be a long way from the places you want to be. Goreme is the hub of activity for the balloons and caves. It is served by two airports: Nevsehir, which is about 50 minutes away, and Kayseri, which is nearer 90 minutes away. There are buses that are cheap enough, or you can splash out on a cab.

    The region has a peculiar landscape that has been formed from volcanic rock. This rock erodes relatively easily, but it is also relatively easy to dig into. Consequently, humans have been carving out caves in the rocks and building their dwellings for up to 10,000 years.

    I really wanted to stay in one of the cave hotels and experience the primeval survival instinct, which was helped by having aircon and a hot tub in the room. We stayed in Portal Cappadocia Hotel, which directly overlooks Ortahisar Castle. This was fantastic and gave us a great view of the buildings carved into the cliff.

    It is also noticeable how many of the caves and buildings are abandoned. The continual erosion doesn’t appear to give the dwellings a long life expectancy.

    Goreme is at the heart of the underground cities and is where all the trips originate. There are two main trips: the Red Route, which is more focused on museums, and the Green Route, which is longer and covers the southern region of Cappadocia, including Derinkuyu Underground City, the Ihlara Valley and Selime Monastery.

    Derinkuyu Underground City

    The first stop ticked off the Derinkuyu Underground City. It went down seven floors and was an incredible experience. I was expecting the underground city to be a cave system that was expanded by humans, but it turned out the whole thing was dug manually. It was an absolute labyrinth of underground tunnels that dropped seven levels, not a place for anyone who is claustrophobic.

    It is estimated that 20,000 people could exist in the tunnel system, and there are more underground cities littered around the area. It is believed that they were once joined together by tunnels as an underground fortress.

    Within the structure there were giant stone wheels that could be rolled into place to block off different tunnels. It was all very Indiana Jones. In the middle layers the tunnels were smaller and lower to make attacks more difficult. They also make it more difficult for tourists, and I’ve still got the scars on the top of my head from scrapes.

    Historians have theories about the tunnel origins. Most suggest they appear to have been used by Christians as protection from the Romans and latterly the Mongols. It was an absolutely intriguing place.

    Selime Monastery

    Next up was Selime Monastery. This was part of the historic Silk Route between Europe and Asia and was carved into the rock. It is still an incredible structure, with an entire church carved into the rock, rooms for travellers and defensive structures to protect merchants and their wagon trains.

    So, my curiosity about the underground civilisation and cave cities was satisfied. Now it was fingers crossed that the weather would hold for the balloon ride.

  • Istanbul – is 3 days enough?

    Istanbul – is 3 days enough?

    Visiting Istanbul I had Istanbul on my bucket list for a long time, so finally arriving to experience its culture and mix of influences was a real thrill. Our research suggested staying in Sultanahmet — a name I found tricky until I realised it was simply “Sultan Ahmed,” the ruler who built one of the city’s great mosques.

    I have added a few images of Istanbul at the end of the blog for you to have a look at.

    We allowed three full days to explore, though in truth two would have been ample. Unlike Rome, where history is carefully preserved, Istanbul’s past feels buried under centuries of construction. The drive in from the airport revealed a vast, sprawling city straddling both sides of the Bosphorus, the waterway linking the Black Sea to the Mediterranean. Our boutique hotel, the Amiral Palace, was perfectly located: five minutes from the Blue Mosque and, as I discovered too late, just two minutes from the Irish Bar where I missed the England game.

    We started with a guided tour, thinking it would give us our bearings for further exploration. Having a guide is always handy, but we assumed it would be a city tour. It turned out to be a walking tour — and with good reason. Everything worth seeing in Istanbul was within walking distance of our hotel and within Sultanahmet.

    We discovered that everything interesting in Istanbul seemed to be either a mosque or a bazaar. We also discovered that Istanbul is hellishly expensive: the tour cost £135 and we simply walked around our locality. That said, the mosques are incredible constructions and beautiful places to visit. Any Sultan who wanted to be remembered built a mosque, and consequently there are over 3,000 in Istanbul. The grand ones are all in Sultanahmet, except for a new monster that has just been built.

    The highlight was without doubt the Blue Mosque, a truly magnificent structure — but you don’t need a guide to see it. We followed the guide through various bazaars, but the only way to experience the Grand Bazaar is on your own. Wander until you find what you’re looking for and make sure you have cash; if you show a vendor a card they lose interest, a bit like a crucifix to a vampire!

    Undeterred, we organised more activities to find the “real” Istanbul. On the second day we booked a bus tour of the city. Another expensive treat at £40 each to sit on a double‑decker for nearly three hours, but it generally confirmed that while Istanbul has some pleasant squares and places to hang out, everything a tourist wants is concentrated in Sultanahmet.

    We decided to have dinner on one of the posh evening river cruises. This turned out to be more fun, mainly because we met a great couple from Stockholm called Catrina and Peter. We did our best to enjoy the food, and good conversation saved us from the worst of the dancing rituals. One of my ambitions was to see a Whirling Dervish — a mystical religious dance where performers spin themselves into a trance. This was one of the highlights of the show for me, though I must confess it was a rather dull experience. Still, at least I’ve seen one.

    By day three we were thoroughly “mosqued out,” so we went to see the Basilica Cistern. I first became aware of it from the Dan Brown film Inferno, and it also featured in a James Bond film. It was expensive to enter and the queue was longer than the time spent inside, but it is an astonishing structure, built over 2,000 years ago as a reservoir for the city.

    To finish off, we booked a sunset boat tour along the Bosphorus on our last evening. Sadly, with the days shortening in October, the company hadn’t adjusted the departure time. We watched the sunset as we pulled away from the quay, then spent the next three hours sailing around the coast in darkness.

    By day four we were pleased to be on our way to Cappadocia — ready for balloon rides and to go deep underground in search of ancient civilisations.

    Cistern Basillica istanbul
    Bospherus Bridge in Istanbul
    Obelisks in Istanbul
    Inside the Grand Bazar istanbul
    Inside the magnificent Blue Mosque Istanbul
    Sunset over Sultanahmed
    Whirling Dervish in action in Sultanahmed
    Rod Sowden - man in a skirt - essential dress for the blue mosque
    Whirling Dervish on the Bospherus dinner cruise
    Bridge across the harbour with cafes across the river
  • Turkey here we come !

    Turkey here we come !

    After a few long hauls in the last 18 months, and looking at various ancient places, it dawned on us that there were big chunks of history and adventure closer to home that we had not explored yet.
    In particular, we were thinking of Jordan and Egypt, but with old Trumpy encouraging people the lob missiles around we decided Turkey was a safer bet this year. In fact Turkey has some of the most interesting history of anywhere.
    At the crossroads to Europe and Asia it has been a cradle of history and hosted most of the empires that shaped our European culture, where the Greeks met the Persian, where the Mongolians raided from the east, where the Crusaders from England came with their religious fervous and the Silk Road runs straight through, it even has it’s own continent, Asia Minor.
    The original plan was to try out an organised tour, but when I showed Wooksie the various itineraries she pointed out that we were supposed to having a holiday not some of archaeological expedition, so once again we ended up travelling independently and organising the whole thing ourselves.
    As with other trips our plan is to got to the key centres, then organise visiting the places of interest using Tripadvisor or Get Your Guide, which has worked well in the past.
    We had been to Turkey 32 years ago, and remembered it being a very cheap place to live, travel and it was full of cheap, rip off, designer goods so we could get our Xmas shopping in early,
    We decided to start in Istanbul, otherwise known and Constantinople and Byzantium, with all those names, Sultans and invaders it was bound to be fun, where east meets west and all that.
    I was intrigued by the stories of underground cities where ancient people hid underground from invading armies. So this was top of my list of things to do, a lot of them are built around Goreme in the Cappadocia region, fortunately this was also the place famous for balloon rides, to Cappadocia was added to the list.
    To keep Wooksie happy, we included a 7 day holiday break in the seaside resort of Antalya. It also had the benefit of having a lot of history in it’s own right, with various relics of the Roman and other empires, it meant we could keep up our historical theme, as well as finding a nice place to settle for a week.


    So, all the flights and hotels are booked, Turkey here we come, show us what you’ve got!


    Here is our plan

    A schedule table for a travel itinerary, detailing dates, activities, and hotels for a trip in October.