Category: Adventures

Stories about travel and adventure

  • Discovering mystical Zanzibar: Paradise Awaits

    Discovering mystical Zanzibar: Paradise Awaits

    One of the main attractions of Tanzania was the opportunity to go to Zanzibar. Just the name conjures up images of pirates, Arabian nights, mystical African history, slave trading, Indiana Jones and deserted islands with white sand beaches. So we booked it for our last few days.

    We flew from Kilimanjaro and even the arrival was quite exciting. It was just after midnight on the day the government decided to impose a tourist tax of about £25 to cover “health care”. Needless to say it was chaos, the airline didn’t mention it, nobody on the flight knew about it, the online payments didn’t work, nobody had cash, and we were all knackered at 1am.

    As we learned, the country and inhabitants are poor and if this helps then great, but as we always have to remember, this is Africa, so it will be slow and disorganised, and so it was.

    A great view to wake up to from our hotel room, in every sense it felt like a tropical paradise, including cocktail bar

    My online transaction failed, but when i checked the Revolut card it had actually gone through, so with that evidence we were let in and the cab was waiting.

    We then discovered the main road on the island was being dug up, so had a ride through the back streets of Stone Town that doubled the journey time and at times was a bit alarming as it appeared slave trading might still be in fashion based on the neighbourhoods, but finally we made it to the hotel.

    Before we arrived, I tried to work out the best location to stay, and to be honest it seemed to depend on what you wanted from the hotel because everywhere looked stunning.

    Perfect resort

    We stayed at the Tui Zanzibar Bay resort on the east of the island. In my experience hotels very rarely live up to the hype, but this one did and it was exceptional value as well, we might have just got lucky booking it late but it did feel like we were on a tropical island.

    View from our beach and the jetty with the bar on it.  Note how far out the time is, so half the day we didn't really have sea, but it was good for walk along the beach

    Beautiful pools, beachside location and a pier to watch the sunset the sunset and drink cocktails. The beaches 10 miles up the coast were better but most people seemed to stay on the resort anyway.

    When you get past the initial romance of Zanzibar and start investigating what to do, then you quickly discover there isn’t much apart from sitting by the pool, enjoying the ambiance and have a holiday.

    View from the TUI hotel with the tide in and a traditional dow

    Wooksie (my long suffering wife) was very pleased with this lack of options, particularly after being bounced around in a safari vehicle and climbing the foothills of Kilimanjaro, so sat back to read her book in the shade.

    After one day of paradise my ADHT kicked in and I started to investigate the options, I decided it was the right time in my life for scuba diving lessons and maybe even some deep sea fishing.

    The only other options were a rather hot and sweaty trip to see the slave trading history of Stone Town or take a coach to other beaches that seemed sounded wonderful but similar to the one we were on.

    Zanzibar eroded rock formation

    I offered the options to Wooksie, who declined, pointing out she didn’t like being in the sea, asked if I’d noticed she was a red head and would get sunburned on an exposed beach and didn’t want to get hot and sweaty, and picked up her book again.

    So I took to walking along the beach and looking at the strange stone formations and wondering how long the walls would last as the sea was busily eroding away the foundations.

    Dive boats off Zansibar

    It is worth noting that outside of these resorts there is nothing to do. A community had grown up around the hotel but apart from that it was empty.

    A friend of mine (The Chemist in The Crew) had his honeymoon on the island, they rented bikes and rode around the villages and were stoned by a bunch of lads playing football. Initially I thought he meant they had taken drugs but nope, they actually had rocks thrown at them. Personally, I’ve thrown rocks at him in the past as well so I’m not passing judgement, but this does suggest travellers might need to wary of the locals.

    Dive boats off Zansibar

    Scuba diving

    So to keep me occupied, I did two days diving which included lessons, it involved a coach trip up the coast and spending most of the day living the island paradise dream, out on a small dive boat, with fun people and exploring the undersea paradise.

    Dive boats off Zansibar

    It’s fair to say we weren’t alone out on the ocean. The diving happened around a coral reef about a mile out to sea. The diving company were very safety conscious, other than the danger of being run over by another boat.

    The trip was only for experienced divers, to be honest I was a little bit obscure about my diving experience, I mentioned diving on the Great Barrier Reef (didn’t mention it was half a day lesson) so they gave me a refresher course as it was 30 years ago and I quickly picked up the basics. After years of surfing, being under water isn’t much of threat and that seems to be the main obstacle to learning.

    A little bit of tropical heaven on this island near the reef.

    The diving instructors were really good, he was looking after 2 of us, and over the 2 days we did 4 long dives and he took us down to a depth of 18m so technically we had achieved the requirements for the PADI certificate. Unfortunately I hadn’t registered for it so will do it on a future holiday.

    Unfortunately I didn’t have the Go Pro with me on the holiday but underwater pictures don’t tend to be great anyway, needless to say we say lots of fish and I came a little too close to a Moray Eel, even though it was small it was an evil looking son of a bitch and I never want to see one again.

    Sunset from our Zanzibar  jetty
  • Top Excursions in Norway: A Cruise Traveler’s Guide

    Top Excursions in Norway: A Cruise Traveler’s Guide

    The trip in general did exactly what it said on the tin. The ship arrived in port every morning, getting on and off was very efficient with no queues (other than the lifts) so that was a very good experience.

    Stavangar, most of the towns looked like this

    It was good to get off the ship each day, the Norwegian ports were quaint, but much of a muchness. The trips are important because there isn’t a lot to do in the towns and they are expensive, especially the bars. If you want to get to see the waterfalls and mountains you need to do the excursions.

    Common view of the fjords

    Stavangar

    The general view of cruise ship excursions is that you can buy them cheaper locally, through something like Tripadvisor or Trustpilot. This may work in the Med or the Caribbean but it wasn’t the case with Norway as there wasn’t much competition amongst the providers, presumably due to a lack of cruise ships, so you might as well buy it through P&O or whoever you go with.

    Pulpit Rock from the water, this is a top base jumping venue

    Once of the problem with the excursions is there are so many  options in the brochure it is difficult so work out what you want to do, part of the problem is the tours in each town are quite similar, boat trip, trek, kayaking or coach ride so here is a quick summary of what we did:

    One of many spectacular water falls

    Stavanger, we did the cruise up the Fjords to Pulpit Rock, it was a very pleasant afternoon out but take some sarnies, there is nothing on the boat. The trip went up close and personal with the edges of the fjords and ticked that box really well. There was a trek up to Pulpit Rock that would have been spectacular but was expensive and 9 hour return trip.

    Start of the trek up Sugar Lump - well worth the effort

    Aalesund

    We climbed Sugar Lump Mountain, which included a coach transfer. The mountain was actually only about 10 minutes away, so a group could walk there, or 4 people might be better off getting a cab. The walk was quite tough and would have been a lot tougher in the rain.

    View from the top of Sugar Lump mountain and spectacular views

    There wasn’t much else to do in the town, so we spent £38 on the hop on hop off bus, which provided the proof that there was nothing else to do and we fell asleep on the exciting tour!

    Spectacular views from the top of the Olden Cable car

    Olden

    This is a special cruise liner terminal built in a remote Fjord and is the most spectacular part of the cruise. We did the cable car up the mountain and trekked around the top in the morning and it was spectacular with views of the fjords, especially if you don’t do winter sports and haven’t been on the top of mountains.  In the afternoon we did another coach trip and trek to the glacier, this was also very spectacular and set us up for a few beers later !

    A group of five people standing in front of a glacier and turquoise glacial lake, surrounded by rocky mountains and greenery in a scenic location.

    Haugesund

    Is the final stop and to be honest we were wondering what else there was to do. The only thing we hadn’t done was kayaking and it felt like we were doing it for the sake of it, but we were saved by a bad weather forecast out to sea, so our  stop was curtailed which was just enough time for a wander around, have a Costa coffee, meet out chums and have a very expensive pint in the sun.

    The essential holiday beer, but at their prices we only had one before heading back to the trip

    Then back to Southampton, in a cold grey North Sea mist, which meant that everyone sat inside and filled up all the chairs, or in many cases, took the opportunity to eat more in the buffet or drink more in the pub.

    view of the fjords

    Summary

    So, in summary, the cruise was exactly what we expected, the bad bits were what we expected, and the good bits were also what we expected. It was a great way to see Norway and we chose a standard low cost option, and we got what we paid for, so no complaints.

    We need to age another 10 years before we do the next one, but there is also the possibility that there wont be a next one anytime soon !

  • Norway cruise experience – the reality of  life onboard

    Norway cruise experience – the reality of life onboard

    The first few hours were good, but then the other people started to arrive, and getting about became more difficult as the queues for the lifts grew, it also became quite obvious that the gym wasn’t going to be the “go to” place for many of them, which was good in many respects, but bad for queues at buffets and bars.

    I had the pleasure of the company of Mr Blowey who has become an expert in cruising in his latter years.

    Cruise ship Iona The view from the gym window made jogging a bit more interesting

    Queues

    In general, queues were the issue. My companions were experienced cruisers, and they assured us that this was the worst ship they had been on, and it wasn’t common to have problems getting into restaurants and getting drinks at the bar.   

    It was a real shame, because the restaurants had a good mix of food themes and were well decked out. Generally the food was good, but too often we ended up in the 24 hour buffet because there was less hassle getting served there.

    Over time we realised that the cruise was under resourced, there simply weren’t enough staff to cope with the level of customers. Within the restaurants it was common for the tables not to be cleared while there were people waiting for a table.

    By booking the restaurants in advance we could have avoided some of these queues, it is a lesson for everyone else, but we don’t like being that organised!

    Cruise ship Ionaadult pool area

    In the bars, they had a strange process where bar staff only dealt with orders from the waiters, who were inundated with queues of people trying to place orders, especially out on the deck bars where they were overwhelmed with 20 or 30 people trying to give orders. This hardly made for a happy workforce, and they seemed a pretty miserable bunch on the whole.

    Entertainment seemed to be targeted at people in their dotage, if you like piano music and cabaret then it is fine, it was what we expected and we accept we are the outsiders on this type of thing.

    The cinema seemed to be running for 24 hours a day and the films were a couple of years old that you will have seen on Netflix or somewhere, but it does offer an option, the only films I really noticed was Alvin and Chipmunks and Riders, as they came around pretty regularly on the schedule.

    The shopping was good if you were looking for a tax free Rolex or diamond ring, but not too helpful if you needed toothpaste, but as we went to a new port every day it wasn’t really a problem.

    One of my reflections on the whole onboard experience was that it wasn’t “Fun”. It felt like hard work all the time, getting from A to B was always a challenge, from deck 10 everything was either 6 floors above us or 4 floors below. We worked out the lifts in the end, basically don’t bother OR use the lifts at front which were quieter.

    Cruise ship Iona Lounge area on the ship

    No communications

    One of the problems is that you can’t communicate with friends unless you pay £20 a day for internet access. So mobile phones don’t work and the only way of contact each other is the phone in the bedroom, which we have all forgotten how to use.

    So we had to resort to historic skills like organising where we meet and making sure we turned up on time. It wasn’t a skill that came easily to us and you can imagine what it is like trying to bump into friends in a giant shopping mall, but somehow we did manage it but it was mostly by accident.

    A sunset view from a cruise ship balcony overlooking shimmering water and distant land.

    We were lucky that we went with a couple of experienced cruisers as without them it would have been much more challenging and I doubt we would have had much company either, they weren’t really “our people”.

  • Exploring Norway’s Fjords on a Cruise Adventure

    Exploring Norway’s Fjords on a Cruise Adventure

    When anyone mentioned cruise holidays I used to think “not in a million years mate”.

    Cruise ship Iona

    The thought of being locked up in a tin can and taken to places that I had no choice about filled me with dread. But life moves on and I did become inquisitive about what wonders existed inside those towering pleasure palaces that trundled into places we were staying.

    They are Behemoths of the sea, 20 stories high and with roller coasters hanging out the side of the ship was honestly beyond my imagination. I’d been to enough theme parks but really, on a ship!

    Cruise ship Iona

    Watching them head into ports and spew out thousands of people into one small area of a town, which was normally inhibited by hawkers of dodgy goods and trips, or expensive jewellery shops for the well healed cruisers was more convincing that these would not be my kind of people, and certainly not 5000 of them at one time within the giant tin can.

    Over the years we’ve moving along from a little from beach side bars playing dance music in a tropical paradise, but not far, we might now include the odd sunset cocktail bar in Tenerife but basically, we are still beach bums at heart.

    This, however, presented one problem, I quite fancied seeing the Norwegian fjords. With stunning coastal scenery and high living costs, I was never going to head there in my old camper van, so I explored the other options, and the obvious one was doing it on a cruise.

    Cruise ship Iona infinity pool

    So, after some soul searching, and recognising that life moves on and that we should try other things, we decided that if we were ever going to do a cruise, Norway would be a good place to test the water.

    We could see the format working for a tour of the Caribbean Island as well, so we booked up with P&O to head for the Fjords in Springtime aboard the good ship IONA. A few people had done this trip and waxed lyrical about the wonders of Norway so we went with high hopes that it would be fun, and not feel like 1 of 5000 people locked in a tin can, with huge queues to get around and spending our time being shepherded.

    First impressions were great, a huge ship and boarding at Southampton was very efficient. We had an inside cabin (advised by friends as they said we wouldn’t be in it much) which was very comfortable and well designed. We were on very early so had chance to explore.

    Cruise ship Iona gym

    The first tour of the ship confirmed it was monstrous, rather like a tour of a large glitzy shopping mall. Shops along one deck, restaurants everywhere, a really good gym and spa and plenty of bars and entertainment areas so we were very optimistic about the experience.

    Cruise ship Iona sunset
  • Serengetti Safari – the incredible Ngorongoro Crater

    Serengetti Safari – the incredible Ngorongoro Crater

    Day 3 started, not surprisingly at the crack of dawn. The Masai guide collected us from our bungalow in the dark, armed only with a stick and torch, which was a bit scary bearing in mind the guide the day before was armed.

    Grazing flamingos

    Giraffe attack

    The first bit of excitement happened before we reached the breakfast hut, there was a rustle in the trees above, which was unnerving enough as it might have been the missing leopard. The we realised that what we thought were poles were actually legs, it was a bloody great giraffe having breakfast. Startled, it clopped away across the path 20m ahead of us into another clump of trees.

    Grazing giraffe

    Mr Masai told us not to panic, so we walked along quietly with the torch on. Suddenly, all hell broke loose in the clump of bushes housing the giraffe, Mr Masai put his body around Wooksie to protect her as the giraffe burst out of the trees and missed them by less than 5m. It appeared that the torch light frightened the beast and it bolted straight towards us, so an interesting start to the day and you don’t really appreciate how big a giraffe is until it tries to run into you.

    Wooksie wasn’t impressed generally, so We clambered into the truck and set off to tour Ngorongoro Crater reflecting on the fact we were lucky to be alive.

    What is unique about Ngorongoro Crater? Other than being the biggest intact (unbroken) volcanic caldera on Earth, the Ngorongoro Crater is also a natural sanctuary for some of the densest populations of large mammals in Africa. Due to its enclosed nature, the Ngorongoro Crater has effectively formed its own ecosystem, a bit like a land locked Noahs Ark for animals.

    As in the song Hotel California, the animals can check out but they can never leave as they are faced with very steep mountain slopes that surround the crater. The only big animal missing is giraffes, this is because their rather clumsy geometry means they cannot get into the crater, after our pre breakfast experience we weren’t too disappointed.

    Amazing lions

    Without doubt, this was the best day of the safari, the animals were everywhere, especially the lions. These lions seemed to be a bit more motivated than those on the Serengeti hence the great videos and these two beautiful young males displaying their arrogance.

    The big objective for the day was to see a rhino. Spoiler alert, we might as well get this out of the way now, we didn’t see one. Apparently they are very rare, well they might have been extinct for the amount we saw.

    Grazing zebras

    The crater is in effective like a Shangri La for animals, it is a perfect environment. Obviously some of them get eaten by higher mammals in the food chain, mainly the lions, but other than that they all seem to live happily together.

    Zebras and wilder beast everywhere

    We saw huge herds of wilder beast munching away with huge herds of zebras mixed in with them, it was an incredibly tranquil sight. the lions seemed to agree and sat around licking their lips enjoying the view as well.

    Wilder beast at graze

    The wilder beast migration was limited to a little trot from one side of the crater to another, and maybe a jog back. In the crater there is no need to migrate as there is plenty of food and water for everyone, it really was animal heaven. Even the vultures seemed happy.

    Nesting vultures

    The high point of the trip was a close encounter with this bad boy. He truly was the king of the jungle. He stopped all the trucks and blocked the road while he waited for his girls, once they had crossed the road he went for a stroll through the trucks and I could honestly have stroked his head, I was so sorely tempted by decided my arm was quite useful and didn’t need to be risked.

    This close encounter could have been a lot closer, because only about half a mile up the road we had a pee stop, which seemed to have been bought on by the consumption of Tanzanian fanta.

    It was interesting, in a mixed sex vehicle, watching how the two sexes dealt with their desperate need. The boys ran off to the nearest rock, which freaked out our guide Rashid as he couldn’t see us (there is danger everywhere).

    The ladies however had a committee meeting to discuss their approach, and finally took up a position behind the truck, which was in full view of any vehicles coming up the road, strange but true.

    tooth pick tree

    Tooth pick trees

    It wasn’t just the animals, this is a weird tree that is absolutely covered in tooth picks. Nature has designed a defence mechanism that means none of the animals can eat it – what a wonderful world.

    lunch with the safari team

    And finally, lunch on the way home after an exhausting 3 days seeing wonderful things.